Top Pu erh teas of 2015

Let’s pick up from where we left off on the discussion of top puerh terriors of the past ten years.  So far, we’ve covered the super renowned like Lao Banzhang, Bingdao, and Wan Gong (aka Bow Village).  You may have noticed that there has been no mention of Yiwu, Lincang or Menghai.  This is because these are the general names where the specific terriors being discussed reside.  Puerhs called Yiwu are usually a blend of materials from various terriors.  The trend is toward greater specificity as these command a higher price on the market than just a general regional name.

Ma Hei

Mahei is one of the famous Yiwu mountains.  Among these mountains, Mahei is distinguished as having the best “yun,” a cryptic term that describes the harmoniousness and complexity of a puerh’s overall effect.   The reason for puerh’s modern appeal is in part due to Mahei, especially when it comes to raw puerh.  From ancient times to the present Mahei has often been adulterated, leaving its taster with an unsavory impression.  Now, collectors pay attention to purity level because this is the basis for its storage value.

The strength of Yiwu teas is the liveliness that emerges after storage.  The saying goes, “The longer the storage, the stronger the qi.”   Presently, tea enthusiasts associate Yiwu tea with a certain gentility.  This is a rather superficial take.  Modern research shows that early spring tea is not gentle.  The gentility is because the material is picked toward the end of spring, in summer, or is a mixture of young and old tea.  Consequently, the aged product is bland, as to be expected.  This is perhaps the impression of Yiwu tea because makers all want to produce the cheap product.  As a result, in recent years there have been no classic Mahei productions.

Characteristics: Mahei tea possesses neither the heights nor the fullness of Gua Feng Zhai.  The liquor is not as bright yellow nor is there the beauty in its softness, therefore it ranks in the second-class among Yiwu teas.  The trademark of Yiwus is powerful fragrance and soft liquor.  Mahei is more so, with a subtle softness that still makes it a premium selection among Yiwu teas.  The broth is thick, soft, clear, refined, with a floral-fruity fragrance.  Early-spring material is the best, with a lasting fragrance.  Its broth is oily bright, with a full mouth-feel, and a strength within its softness.

Kun Lu

Kunlu Mountain is part of the Wuliang Mountain chain, located at an altitude between 1400-2300m, consisting of over 10K mu of area.  It is considered a semi-cultivated tea area comprised of the broad-leaf variety situated amidst primordial forests.

Characteristics:  Intense steady fragrance, with a bitterness and astringency that transforms easily.  The flavor is sweet, mellow and refreshing.  It is rich in nutrients and the sensation stimulates saliva production.