A Night Visit with BZ Peacock

A Night Visit with BZ Peacock finds the Puerh Junky searching for an appropriate night cap, something with more bite and less dirt than the ’01 Yiwu Chashan.  He grabs the caddie about 1/8th full of Buddha Impressions, when he finds the gaiwan of BZ Peacock opened the previous day staring at him.

There’s no doubt that the BZ Peacock is now the best its ever been, this Oct 2022.  The two days of sitting have produced excellent results.  It’s very much on par with Wang Xia’s ’01 Green Mark A, which I’ve mentioned several times by different names.  It tastes like really good leather that’s been cured with the best of tallow and fragrances, like oud, sandalwood, and myrrh.  It’s bitter on the finish with an interesting yet characteristic apple sweetness and sourness of many fancier Xinghai productions.  This time it lurks amidst a a strong layer of smoked hickory.

The Buddha Impressions isn’t this woody, but like Grenouille and Zou Binlang’s Cinnamon, they all are of a similar profile.  Buddha Impression is more peppery and ferment-y, with amaretto notes.  Fuhai’s ’07 7536 can be added to the mix, but its notes are more commonly found in any kitchen cupboard, namely bay leaf and clove.  The ’07 iteration is reported to be unique, to which I can attest to only from an ’04 in the stash, which is decidedly heavier stored and perhaps more in the vein of the 7542.

Certainly, one of the more curious aspects of all these productions is absence of a punctuated camphor note.  Perhaps this will emerge, is only a product of storage, or its absences is particular to these productions.  The ’05 Silver Pekoe, Tulin seems to demonstrate that storage plays a significant role in the camphor note.  Its first iteration received heavy storage, expressing strong sour notes on the back end during the first four years of possession.  The second iteration had that baby powder note but after a year of good heat and humidity transitioned into camphor.  In the first, the camphor deepened, while the sour waned winding up with a dense camphor explosiveness.  The second, has settled into the Grenouille and Buddha Impression neighbourhood.  The second definitely stored under much drier conditions.  In the final assessment, there’s no doubt that explosive camphor is closely correlated with humidity and warmth.

Finally, BZP lasts forever.  It isn’t a quaffer, so a gaiwan is likely to last up to 5 sessions of 450ml each. I’ll relate something from my days in Beijing to this end.  There was a retired Frenchman with whom I drank cognac on a couple occasions.  We only had one teacup’s worth each time, sipping.  Contrast this from the HK context, where they were drinking XO in tumblers as a “classy” sign of extravagance.  Yeah, you can quaff BZP if you like, but it doesn’t feel like that type of tea to the Puerh Junky. . . but what does he really know anyway?

p.s. BZ Peacock sale till Sun.

Two Puerh Heavyweights from ’06

I’m finally ready to release Two Puerh Heavyweights from ’06.  They reside at opposite extremes of the puerh spectrum, mid-aged to be precise.  One is the Fohai, 6FTM and the other is Xinghai’s BZ Peacock.  I’ve had the former better part of 18 mths and the latter over a year though began tasting in April.

The Fohai is old name of Menghai city and the famous tea factory.  Since a great many of 6FTM’s productions are region specific, perhaps the choice of Fohai is a creative nod to the past.  Perhaps this formulation hearkens back to a much earlier formula than but similar to the 7532. The reference might be to the Menghai factory itself but I cannot recall any direct MHTF linage as is the case with many notable others, e.g., Xinghai, Haiwan, and Du Qiongzhi to name a few.

The citrus and floral attributes sound with resolute clarity and joy.  I’ve been tinning it since Feb ’21 and the honey notes and viscosity increased considerably.  Being stored in conservatively cool conditions, it’s definitely on the younger side of ’06 by six years.  This is more or less the case with most 6FTM productions between ’04 and ’09, the compression years.

Interestingly, tighter compression is less an index of quality than it is for how the treasure should be extracted from the whole and brewed.  As far as the Fohai is concerned, larger pieces with a bit of shake is superior to any form breaking into smaller or individual leaves.  This is not that type of production and tea bits invariably brew up more bitter and abrasive.  Allowing the leaves to unfurl naturally through the course of several infusions yields a superior experience to the nuance of the tea itself.

The Fohai is stunningly elegant as far as most 6FTM productions I’ve encountered.  It has a citrus note reminiscent of the Jade Mark but utterly foreign to any of their other 6FTM productions in the stash or collection.

The BZ Peacock is not for light weights.  It’s in the Spirits Class of productions.  Mesquite pervades the character of this Xinghai puerh cake.  It possesses nearly all of the hideous notes: petrol, ash, wood, leather, and smoke but includes a most unexpected tartness.  Without having experienced their ’06 Delta Peacock, I would have considered this sourness a bit of a flaw.

The cakes were magnificently stored on the drier warm side.  The wood note thrives in such dryness.  Others might discern mushrooms.  Since being in my possession from Nov ’20, the BZ Peacock has only now reached a level of sweetness where it can be considered at drinking weight.  It’s the sweetness amidst a welter of contrasting tastes that likely accounts for its precipitous appreciation of three fold since ’19.

If there’s any consolation, the BZ Peacock will be classified under Tobacco, since no Spirit category exists.  Though banzhang is a part of the production’s name, it plays zero part in why it became part of the Collection.  Name of terroir is only incidental to factory and wrapper.  Mid-aged Xinghais with fancy wrappers command a great deal of the Puerh Junky’s attention.  Offerings with the name BZ may command the attention from a great many others.

These two treasures will be offered by the 5th of Dec ’21.

 

Puersuits or Puerversions?

Puersuits or Puerversions takes the reader into the dark recesses of the Puerh Junky’s cave.  As the drone zooms in he’s seen muttering something about “porcelain” and “volume”.  He’s also distracted knowing that the reader is questioning the absence of the “h” in “puersuits”, given that the Puerh Junky is so fancy as to spell “puerh” with an “h” in the first place.  Trying to not get caught in the morass of how Chinese gets romanized, he glibly makes something up.  “Everyone knows you drop the “h” before an “s”.  That’s the problem.  No one obeys the rules anymore,” condescending to no one in particular.

His distemper was becoming more obvious.    Taking a chunk from a small porcelain “tea jar” he warms up his workhorse zisha.  It’s the ’07 HK Returns cake.   It’s delivering its best performance ever, a tribute to Zhongcha Zen style and complexity.  Never before had the HKRC “turned over”.  Sweetness and volume where all the layers previously formed a cacophony, now they had the space to harmonize.  The fuzzy note that sounds in many ZC productions from this year is much more ephemeral in the taste but totally present in the aroma, like fabric softener or sun-dried bed sheets.

“The small porcelain tea jar seems to been unspeakably beneficial for the HKRC, better than previously zisha stored experiments for longer durations,” he thinks to himself.  Then his mood turns to all the tea he hasn’t drunk.  “Perhaps this puersuit has turned into a bit of a puerversion,” he thinks solemnly, when the thought of the recently acquired HK Returns brick comes to mind.

HKR Square

For whatever reason, each shape tastes different, though there seem to be clues suggesting they’re the same.

The brick is the first wrapper where I’ve seen any indication of the actual recipe, “6581”.  It’s still firmly situated in the tobacco class, signs of petrol forming as well.  Evocative of Grenouille and Buddha Impressions before getting quite a bit more forceful in around infusion five.  Still quite young in some regards.  It’ll be an interesting puersuit getting to know more about it compared to the others.  Perhaps a sampler wouldn’t be too much of a puerversion.

 

Puerh Cake Take: Jingmai Truth

This Puerh Cake Take is entitled “Jingmai Truth.”  It’s a reference to the true taste of the ’14 Wild Jingmai, a quintessentially floral puerh terrior.  This GPE tea is one of their best out the gate and strongly representative of the region.

When we talk about the raw floral puerhs there are many variations.  The Jingmai floral is described as “orchid.”  It stands in contrast to the Fengqing/Daxueshan black tea floral note.  Good Jingmai floral can be quite inviting at a young age.  It also represents a style of puerh processing that stands in contrast to classic recipes that require long term storage.

This entry daringly assumes some Jingmai Truth that differs from a Bulang Truth or an Yiwu Truth.  Indeed.  Jingmai must be floral: how the flowers pop in aroma as well as taste and huigan determine its truth.  The Wild Jingmai rates highly by all these measures.  It has citrus note in line with the Jade Mark and a mouthfeel like the Mystery dragon pearl.

In my June 2020 tasting of the Wild Jingmai, I keep coming back to truth.  The impression is akin to proof in spirits.  Even flavour-infused vodkas are brighter and cleaner than the lightest brandy not to mention whiskey.  Here we have very bright notes but with an undertow that is already exhibiting pleasing attributes for drinking now.

 

Awkward Teenage Puerh

Awkward Teenage Puerh dampens any puerh tea session.  This morning such was my misfortune with the ’08 Dali Tuo, XG.  On a high note, at room temperature this production tastes perfectly pleasant, spicy sweet.  On a low note, at warmer temperatures it struck me as being thin.

I used close to a nine gram chunk for my eggplant pot, 150ml.  I gave the first two infusions generous amounts of time and the richness of colour had me expecting an experience with a much fuller mouthfeel.  Having this tuo on the heels of the ’06 Peacock Brick earlier in the week brings the contrast in mouthfeel between the two into sharp relief.

First Infusion

Interestingly, my experience drinking the Dali Tuo was like none I can recall having with puerh.  The colour, taste, and texture reminded me of the sugary peppermint tea that N. Africans favour.  Often, that will get spiked with Gun Powder tea.

Then comes this sourness that reminds me of an earlier stage with the Tippy Tuo.  In the case of Tippy Tuo, the sourness was even stronger but a couple years thereafter it blossomed into something remarkable.  My experience with Xiaguan’s transformation under LA conditions has been positive.  The ’10 Nanzhao tuo was positively wretched before maturing into an intensely camphorous, dark, and sweet medicine. That tuo never exhibited any sourness, rather there was an awful dank-like taste that I’ve detected among many Xiaguan offerings.  This points to fermentation and additional processing methods at the factory and not storage through its numerous vendors.

First Infusion II

This recent turn with the Dali Tuo comes just on the heels of better than two years tracking a vendor this March 2020.  The first purchase was made better than four years ago after running into this article.

As I mentioned, I used close to a nine gram chunk.  After about the third pot I started getting that existential anoui from drinking on an empty stomach.  Higher leafage raises gut-busting potential considerably most puerhs.  This is definitely the case with the Dali Tuo.

Heavy Handed On Cherry Blossom

Heavy Handed on Cherry Blossom is all on account of my sister, who likes her raw puerh with a kick.  I added an extra gram to my normal six for my trusty eggplant pot, 150ml.  The tea crumbles from the cake indecorously but gives off tremendously inviting aroma even dry.

The first and second infusions are the best, the most intensely spicy and numbing.  The aftertaste is sugary cinnamon like Red Hots, also big qi.  But that all wears off by the 4th infusion into a fairly tame experience.

The intensity of the first few infusions is frankly nothing short of spectacular.  It reminded me of a recent acquisition that I found to be among Tulin’s best of what is already very good.

250g Tulin Raw

As the cake continues to develop, Cherry Blossom should likely provide longer interesting sessions.  The raw material from Wuliang Mt seems on part with the Tippy and noticeably better than the AMT or the 07 Tippy, a name I need to desperately change.

Cherry Blossom raw puerh cake is dreadfully tasty on a consistent basis.  The taste pops whether subjected to a light or heavy hand.

Two Puerh Flavor Giants

Mincemeat puerh

For the past three days, I’ve been imbibing of two puerh flavor giants imminently appropriate for the winter season:

The Bamboo puerh possesses a highly distinctive taste: dry-roasted rice or barley and strawberry, evocative of Franken Berry or some other fake strawberry-flavoured breakfast cereal.

Most puerhs aren’t very roasty.  Usually, there are variants of smoke and ash.  Here, the roast is like genmaicha.  Strawberry is also a rare encounter.  On every tasting of this production, I’ve had since ’13, the strawberry just shine through.  The two tastes meld together nicely, with a fait bit of flowers on the top, finished with a great deal of astringency.  It’s a bit of a gut buster, at least on this third day.  Over all, an infusion or two is more than sufficient, as it is filling and easily spills over into the “just too much” terrain.

The ’07 Mincemeat is a puerh that I’ve been waiting for till this time of year.  It still strikes meas being very mincemeaty.  Perahps, it’s not as warm and spicy as previously noted, but there’s still a dash of clove in there.  Now, there seems to be a very noticeable taste of fresh bay laurel, if not bay laurel then distinctly evocative of a Christmas aerosol my mom had back in the day.  It has some resonance with one of my favs, the ’07 Wuliang Rhyme, a now long gone production.  The leaf material of the Mincemeat is of decent quality, and it’s a reasonably famous production that stands to age well.

Unfortunately, I don’t have any of the bamboo on hand and it isn’t available anymore.  The Mincemeat is a recurring formulation, coming out maybe every other year.  Productions older than ’07 start to get up there in price, and I surmise that in a year or two the same will apply for the ’07.  I still have a few on hand.

 

2012 Mooncake, Yangpin Hao

This is the first Yangpin Hao of the ripe nature that I’ve sampled.  It’s the only so far as well.  I’d put this in the dark-roast category of ripes.  But, I’m getting ahead of myself.  Let’s discuss the brick itself…

Pressed into a compact yet easily decompressed square brick of 200g, the Mooncake is just as its name suggests.  Mooncakes are confections, filled cookies of sorts, made of a baked crust on the outside and filled with sweet stuff, egg yolk, and meat with different permutations thereof.  The bread-like outer crust is formed from a mold that has characters that say auspicious things in addition to informing what’s inside.  They’re called “Mooncakes” because they’re eaten during the full moon of the Mid-Autumn festival, also called the Moon Festival.

The Mooncake has been pressed in a mold with the Yangpin Hao logo.  It breaks apart easily without crumbling, flaking off easily with my porcelain-handled tea-needle blade.  It is not overly compressed, so the taste of the brew releases quickly.  After the first 15s infusion, following flash brews were more than sufficient for the next four rounds before adding 30s to the next two before cashing out.  About 6 infusions.

Besides the deep roast taste, Mooncake possesses a taste reminiscent of Johnson’s baby powder smell.  This signature can be detected in some of their raw productions as well.  Consistent with baby powder, this note is quite soft but prevailing.  Other tastes include dried-fruit sweetness and active “zinganoids,” which play on the tongue for a pleasing spell after drinking.  The tannins suggest that even though it’s plenty fine for drinking now, there’s more to expect with age.  There is no wodui in the taste but there is distinctive hand in the fermentation style.

Top Pu erh Teas of 2015-’05 II

This is a continuation of a previous discussion on top pu erh terriors over the past 10 years.  So far, we’ve covered Lao Banzhang and Naka.  Below, an introduction to Bing Dao and Gua Feng Zhai.

Bing Dao
The Bing Dao ancient tea gardens are of the Yunnan large-leaf variety.  This terropr is quite blessed.  It has come to be called “the true Yunnan large-leaf variety.”  The Bing Dao cultivation area is primarily in Lincang City, Shuang Jiang County, Mengku Prefecture at the lower portion of Da Xue Shan encompassing Bing Dao Village, Gong Nong Village, and Greater Mid Mountain. It is the classic Mengku large-tree selection, with long large leaves that possess a black-green color.  The leaves are fat and soft.  Its fragrance is intense and unique.  It is the premium grade among Mengku tea offerings, a pu erh absolutely worthy of storage.
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