Tag Archives: mengku puerh

Puerh Rating Creme Florale

Posted on by Yang-chu
26 Aug

Puerh Rating Creme Florale takes us to a 23 Aug ’22  tasting of a Mengku Rongshi production from 2011.  It’s been in the Collection since April of ’21 and has now in effect sojourned two Los Angeles Summers.  Here we subject it to the much ballyhooed PJRS.

Mengku Rongshi is an outfit focusing narrowly on Lincang offerings primarily in and around Daxueshan.  Bingdao offerings essentially round out their pre-’14 selections, though in recent years they’ve offered more village specific selections, e.g. Xiaohuzhai, Mangfei, Xigui etc.

For several years they’ve been producing Lunar New Years cakes.  One series with a yellow wrapper and zodiac animal floated around for several years but disappeared after ’19.  Those cakes were 900g and equally handsome in price.  A few years ago, PJ issued at least one missive on the Tiger (500g) of an altogether different series (perhaps a one off) that was nothing short of perfect, possessing that DXS zest with a splendid aged root beer-y and floral expression.  I recently saw a description that it was Bingdao, but it’s not.  I’ve been trying to source the Tiger ever since and the last time I saw it, its price was more than 3X the ’15 price and the vendor didn’t respond to calls.  Oh well.  Onto the Creme Florale. . .

Rating Creme Florale

Creme Florale presents with standard MKRS features in terms of moderate compression and an aggressive nature.  Unique is the cream expression that comes in up front and through the middle before tailing off into an aggressive back end.  The contrast between the two intrigues.

After three rounds the total was as follows:

  • Aroma          12
  • Clarity            9
  • Sweetness   10.5
  • Viscosity       10.5
  • Astringency    8
  • Huigan          10.5
  • Qi                    9

Reflections

Creme Florale possesses an extremely inviting aroma, something like Cream of Wheat with a hint of citrus.  Cream and a hint of grass characterise the first infusion’s broth taste, with a thickening and sweetening as it cools.  On comes the astringency, sassy, along with citrus and definite mouth watering.

Infusion 1

An extravagant vanilla aroma follows in the next infusion with a matching taste.  Astringency is strong with a lilies and orchid in the huigan.  This effect possibly gets overwhelmed by the astringency.  The rating notes that CF rates lowest in astringency, not for lack of it but because it has too large a presence.

The qi hits in the second infusion, heady with hints of being too aggressive in the chest.  Salivary activity, as an expression of huigan, excels.  Hunger starts to set in.  At cooler temp, bitterness is detectable with the aforementioned citrus note.

Infusion 3

By the third infusion the lily-orchid note is in full effect, accompanied by very noticeable bitterness.  Cooler the broth thickens and sweetens, with the bitterness abating before returning in the huigan.  The cream note comes through at cooler temps as well.  In this infusion, clarity rates 2.5 reflecting the overall youthfulness.

Conclusions

Creme Florale is aptly named and perfectly suitable for those who like their raw puerhs on the younger side, i.e., with lots of astringency.  The aroma and up front tastes are divine.  The expression holds true to the MKRS house style, and as the session progresses their characteristic brightness and force are on full display.  Give or take, CR lasts a good nine rounds.  This session was flash brewed in a gaiwan and time wasn’t added till about the seventh round.

69/105 B-

About the PJRS.

Marquis’s Floral Puerh

Posted on by Yang-chu
31 Jan

The Puerh Junky finds most floral productions too ostentatious for this tastes.  There’s something about flowery productions that sound an off note.  There are some notable exceptions, like the Lily of the Valley, YPH and the Banzhang Organic from ’08, neither of which listed, but you can message if interested.

Liming and MKRS cake productions really push the limits of cordiality as do 6FTM‘s.  These are all floral productions in the stash but not ones that ever beckon beyond mostly for purposes of checking in on how they’re possibly toning it down. . . which they’re not, except the Monkey.  Then there is the Marquis du Green Mark, quite urbane and agreeable in every regard.

Could the reason for the Puerh Junky’s love for the Marquis have to do with storage?  Probably not.  The ’09 Ox, 6FTM for example is also more humidly stored but but it doesn’t hit like the the Marquis.  No doubt sweetness plays a factor. Many report such productions as Tulin’s T868 or the Lancang Jingmai 003 as sweet, though they strike me as being more like that woman at church who wears loud perfume that oppresses the senses, so much so that the sweetness is muffled.  Those two are both very tippy and could be a very telling factor.  Let’s continue. . .

There’s something about where most florals strike on the scale that poses a challenge for the Puerh Junky.  That  place is about two octaves above middle C.  The Marquis and Yiwu Princess seem to sound an octave lower, and alas, their leaves are considerably larger, as is also the case with Lily of the Valley and the Banzhang Organic.  With the Marquis, perhaps leaf size is also that which provides the overlay of vanilla and undertow of minerals.  In other works, there’s something about the leaf size that not only tames the scream of flowers but also provides additional layers of complexity and deliciousness.

Still, Liming and MKRS offerings aren’t always comprised of little leaves though they almost always pack a very serious punch.  Here’s where age seems to factor in, at least to some extent, perhaps also terroir and production style.  MKRS/Daxue Shan, just isn’t a terroir style suiting the Puerh Junky, though there are always surprises.  The MKRS ’10 Tiger was simply fabulous, a creation where the root beer formed very early and throttled the flowers forming a fantastic experience.

The Marquis is not the DXS flower.  It isn’t in DXS sharp and the Puerh Junky is just not one to know flowers like that.  Yes, with some it’s obvious, Lily of the Valley, Jingmai 003’s honeysuckle, but with many other’s its a toss up.  The DXS and Fengqing floral definitely resonates with black tea floral.  Low and behold, that’s where much black tea actually hails.

Endangered Species Puerh

Posted on by Yang-chu
18 Oct

Endangered Species Puerh isn’t what you think.  This is a nostalgia piece regarding a tuo, a lunar tuo to be precise, that has long vanished.  It took about four years from my acquisition for it to express root beer notes.  At the outset, in ’14, it tasted like pineapple and Granny Smith.

I ran across this post from ’12 and thought I’d share.  It’s in Chinese and for your convenience, I through it through “translator.”  I didn’t tidy the rendering.  It’s good for the pics at the very least.

Tiger is the king of the forest, tea is also the king of the forest
The raw materials are selected for the large-leaf ancient trees and the old sun-dried green tea in the Lancang River Basin, carefully blended by the tea craftsman, and picked by hand. The new and old match, high temperature autoclaved. The soup is yellow and bright. After tasting, the mouth will stay fragrant. Strong taste. pure. With a long aftertaste, it is an excellent product worth collecting and drinking.
I kept it at home for half a year, and I started the soup today. I feel that the raw materials do have the ingredients of ancient trees. I don’t know how much, but the price is still very close to the people and very attractive. In terms of taste and color, after nearly 3 years of transformation, the color of the soup turns yellowish and brighter and slightly red, and there is no longer the green and astringent feeling of new tea. The taste is strong, the bitterness comes and the bitterness is very fast, the sweetness is strong, pure, and the aftertaste is long-lasting, and it is very comfortable in the mouth for a long time. In 3-5 years, Lin Zhongwang must be a good tea.

One of the advantages to tuo is that they’ll get up to speed much faster than a cake.  This particular tuo which was stored conservatively but raced to root beer faster than any amidst the treasure.  This was when I realized that the aggressive taste of Lancang TF was worth enduring.  Still I have an ’09 Ox from them that I’m still waiting on.

Maybe ’10 was one of those “good years.”  I say this because when I got the Mengku Tiger in about 16, I couldn’t believe how positively mature it tasted. . . an looked.

Unbelievably from 2010.

The conditions were magnificent.  It didn’t taste as if it had been pushed too hard in storage.  The root beer was there along with typically floral and burly notes characteristic Mengku/Daxue Shan.

Alas.  They come and they go.

 

Two Root Beer Puerhs Five Years Removed

Posted on by Yang-chu
05 Jan

Here I want to take a look at two root beer puerhs five years removed: ’10 Tiger, MK and the ’05 Qizibing, XH.  The root beer class of puerhs express vanilla tempered by herbal notes that give the impression of that hallowed beverage of 19th-c cowboy saloons.

The Tiger typifies MK’s quality productions.  Stone pressed, The Tiger shows that the factory exercised an added measure of care to make it aesthetically pleasing.  Hailing from the aggressive side of the Lincang region, The Tiger’s notes are floral, characteristic of productions from Fengqing and DaXue Mt.  The hallmark Fengqing offering in the Puerh Junky collection is the Lunar Series from 6FTM.  These are feisty puerhs that’ll grow hair on your chest.  By contrast, MKs tend to be softer around the edges, much more refined, less astringent, with a more complex ensemble of flavours.

Xinghai TF productions seem to be all over the map.  The nondescriptly titled Qizibing is a recipe about which not much information is provided beyond being from Menghai.  I’ve rather concluded that it is an assortment of Bulang villages given it’s straightforward presence and lack of florality.  The cake itself looks like a standard recipe cake that been thrown together with some buds, some leaves, and stems.  The compression is perfectly appropriate, flecking apart easily with the knife.

Generally, root beer doesn’t express, if at all, until a production has quite a few years under its belt. Both productions have been Kunming stored, but the Tiger is one of the most aggressively aged KM productions I’ve encountered.  That said, it’s lost none of character and depth or if it has still possesses a great deal mellowed by a great deal of heat.  The QZB’s age is what’s to be expected of a properly KM aged ’05.

Huigan: Puerh Mysteries #187

Posted on by Yang-chu

’10 Year of Tiger MK

I’ve been pondering this concept of “huigan” lately.  Specifically, I’m wondering about what it might really mean in the context of raw puerh.  Huigan is generally translated as “aftertaste,” literally as “returning sweetness,” or not at all.  In Chinese, the huigan is said to “arrive quickly” or “to have huigan.”

I think it’s fair to conclude that it is a figure of speech, a compliment, but that would be a mistake.  It doesn’t even seem to me to be the same as aftertaste either, because there’s already a phrase for that.

’06 Menghai Tuo

I’m wondering if huigan has anything to do with the astringency that characterizes raw puerh, but ripes are similarly described and they do not have much astringency.

Astringency seems to be an alien concept to many.  Often it is associated with bitter.  Often the terms are used together.  When huigan is mentioned, it’s not necessarily in the context of bitterness and astringency.  Hmmm.

Maybe it encompasses all of these.  Again, the question is why would such a term be particular to puerh but for the fact that gan returns from somewhere.  Is that somewhere bitterness and astringency?

07 Spring LME

For certain huigan has nothing to do with the broth.  Maybe it’s the mouthfeel after the broth.  Some productions have very activating effects on the tongue, cheeks, and throat that are not attributable to the drying-effects of astringency.  To me it very much conjures the effect of the Sichuan pepper.

Anyway, I’ve posted some pictures of productions that I believe capture huigan.  In later infusions, in productions that express a quick huigan, the huigan will naturally take longer to develop.  Gradually an echo of one cup to the next creates a constant buzz in the mouth.

Bubble Gum Tiger Puerh

Posted on by Yang-chu
25 Jun

I don’t know how it is that today I’m picking up notes of bubble gum in 10 Tiger Puerh, MK.  I’m getting it in the aroma and taste, along with angelica spiciness.  It’s Bazooka bubble gum, not “chewing gum” like Juicy Fruit.   The gan is instant with this raw puerh tea.   It is very sweet.  The aftertaste is sweeter, sugary like stevia.

There’s some bitterness in the broth, enough to give it an edge.  Previous sessions have typically conjured a sense of root beer.  The 10 Tiger MK is unmistakably herbal, not vegetal.  There’s no hint of green taste.  I keep thinking sassafras.  There’s much to be said for the moderate compression and decent warmth of the initial storage.  This is a color and taste well beyond its years by 6-10 years.  At the same time the brew has lost NO qi or flavor.

There’s some aggression to it.  It’s not passive aggression nor is it out of control.  Just letting you know it won’t be pushed around.  No smoke.  Maybe that bubble gum is flowers.  Maybe.  Little doubt this is Mengku material, like that weird cousin in the movies who grooves to the beat of jazz-inspired house, as opposed to, say, Chopin.  Maybe.