Tag Archives: kunming tea factory

Spring Ripe Championship Round

Posted on by Yang-chu
11 Jun

Spring Ripe Championship Round commences in four days, June 14th.  All the contestants have just been removed from storage to air.  How they will perform under airing remains anyone’s guess. . . and guess many a spectator will do.  Odds-makers are frantically taking bets.  The sharks placed wagers with cool confidence the minute odds listed.  Yang Q Public (ahem) invariably waits till the last minute.  Here’s the contestants along with the stable represented.

Stay tuned.  Place yer bets.

 

Spring Ripe Puerh Taste Off V

Posted on by Yang-chu
24 May

The evening prior to Spring Ripe Puerh Taste Off IV major domos (or is that doma) Ruan, Zhang, and Du met up for an evening repast of crawfish hotpot with lots of pea greens and limitless enoki.  The following day featured Mme Zhang’s third or fourth performance, while it would be the first for Mmes Ruan, of 6FTM, and Du.  They chatted some about the old days at Menghai TF but mostly the deliciousness of the enoki, the freshness of the crawfish, and nuance of the Sichuan-style broth.  If Domo Zhang appeared more relaxed than her compatriots, if she found the crawfish just a smidge juicier, then it no doubt could be attributed to her already having Operation Macau advance to championship round earlier in the day.  Day V uncertainties weighted in the minds of Domos Du and Ruan.  Let’s get down to the day’s action.

Spring Ripe Puerh Taste Off IV

  • ’02 Purple Mark, 6FTM
    Light cocoa, Tootsie roll, slight camphor, strong qi, super velvet mouthfeel.
  • ’06 T8371, Zhongcha
    Light oud, balance, hint of red hots, astringency, bitterness, petrichor, big aroma, cocoa, camphor, brut.
  • ’05 Yiwu Commission, Du Qiong-zhi
    Magical aroma in dry pot, bright, buttery, camphor, medium to light body, pine, not so sweet, noticeable qi presence.
  • ’08 Golden Tribute, Xinghai
    Lively dry aroma, bittersweet, cocoa, oreo cookie.

Occupying opposite extremes of dark chocolate bitter punishment are the Purple Mark and Golden Tribute.  Purple Mark is one of the oldest contestants, second only to Drury Lane.  They perform similarly.  Airing considerably improves performance.  Straight from storage, it’s a lot like flat pop, silkiness aside.  Golden Tributes ferocity in no way detracted from it’s performance, contending strongly for the top spot.  It’s currently not listed, only three on hand.

This brings us to the two commissions.  The T8371 holds distinction as being a HK commission.  Judging from the recipe numbers, it’s a slight variant of the classic 7581, key being its light fermentation.  This was T8371‘s heftiest performance, entering a new fermentation stage.  Not to sound like a broken record, but it needed some airing.  The plug-n-playability of productions often depends upon the season.  Each production has it’s own personality.  Every production came straight from storage.  No babying allowed.  It’s more than plausible that results would differ in another season.  The red hots note is new exciting addition to an already excellent performer.

Process of elimination leads to the Yiwu Commission as the winner.  Spring has treated this contestant most generously.  The complexity of flavours with all-enveloping camphor pleased all drinkers.  It held up throughout the day, while the Golden Tribute settled into less distinctive expression.  Through the course of five days of mostly drinking Menghai productions, the buttery Yiwu not formed quite an extravagant contrast.  Major Domo Du will be advancing to the championship round.

 

Sound the Zhongcha Trumpets

Posted on by Yang-chu
05 May

4 May 2024 will forever be remembered as the day to Sound the Zhongcha Trumpets!  It has to do with the 600g ripe commemorative acquired around Christmas ’14.  The pic is above.  The reason for the trumpet sounding?  This monstrosity has finally come into form!

Just last year I thought to myself, “maybe it’s really just a lame offering that’ll never amount to much.”  The difference a few months can make.  My feeling about ZC’s Purple Sky is quite similar, though by now I should know better.  There’s a prevailing perception that ripes do not require aging.  It’s imprudent to make such a sweeping generalisation, as factors vary greatly from one production and batch to the next depending upon the conception of the maker.  ZC is probably most notorious for this, realistically providing an absolute max of five recipes but executing varying permutations of material quality, processing, and fermentation to derive “new” productions.  As the saying goes, “if it ain’t broke. . . ”

The 60 has been tested religiously since its acquisition.  Less than 100g remain.  Every session till today has been “myeh”.  Some people like a dry brew, but dryness is an indication that the production hasn’t matured.  If the “55” serves as any basis for comparison, it seems even some of ZC’s raws take about 15 years before rounding into form, i.e., for the sweetness to come in and the tannins to impart richness as opposed to astringency.

A light bulb went off this morning.  The aroma is intensely roasty.  The brew itself requiring three-stacked infusions to reach the proper ratio of density to sweetness.  Such a deep vortex of roast and molasses-esque sweetness is evocative of LCGC and Boyou offerings.  Poof!  That’s where LCGC gets its “0081.”  Duh!  LCGC’s ’13 “0081” is scrumptious.  It’s their entry-level ripe that will soon be posted.  It is to such heights that this 60 has now climbed.

Not to be repetitive but 60 is a “7581,” but not all 7581s are equal.  Before delving further, it’s worth noting that 7581 is a standard-bearer among ripes.  In fact, it is considered one of the first, if not the first, “perfected” ripe recipe.  The “75” indicates the year of production.  The “8” indicates the size of the leaf forming the bulk of the recipe.  The “1” indicates the factory, Kunming Tea Factory, which since ’07 has been the principle entity holding the iconic Zhongcha (aka ChinaTea) trademark.  This recipe constitutes a conceptual tour de force, something now hard to imagine given that most ripes emulate this production style, a style epitomized by having navigated away from attempts at approximating aged puerh and tacking more toward the coffee vibe.

Incidentally, all of the ripe ZC Lunar/Zodiac series are 7581.  It’s fair to conjecture that this series provides the best opportunity to compare relatively recent 7581 vintages.  It’s certainly sufficient basis for mentioning in an ever-so-blasé manner among fellow tea tyrants, “but you know, the drought of _____ (insert year here) in Menghai really shortens the attack after the third infusion.”  Feel free to substitute “flood” for “drought.” Be creative, expositions needn’t be confined to just weather, but could also include religious, political or any other identitarian platitude of one’s choosing; the key is conviction.  Be forewarned. The jury is out on just how much puerh prominence one can possibly gain by talking 7581.  After all, it’s been crafted very much as being “the people’s” ripe.  It’s probably best to start such a conversation by noting thematic inconsistencies in the Zodiac/Lunar wrapper, finish with compression and leave it at that by circling back to talk about HK and Taiwan vendors.

In the past six months, I’ve had the opportunity to visit the ’12 7581 individually boxed brick, part of Ripe Sampler Group #1.  I picked up a slew around April ’15.  Tracking its transformation has formed the basis for a great education on the nature of ripes in general and the 7581 specifically.  Recently (since spring ’23), the brick started to take on some the berry notes often found in Hunan heicha.  There’s also a nice blend of creaminess.  After so much time, there’s a level of sweetness, roundness, and depth that just cannot be found in either a new or questionably stored brick of the same vintage. Yet satisfying as the brick may be, it is clearly comprised of more modest quality material than either the Snake or 60. . . or maybe it’s just that 2012 was an especially ordinary year.

Material quality does vary between cake, brick, and tuo, but there’s no consistent practice across factories.  ZC tends to be most recognized for their bricks, but as stated the ’12 brick doesn’t hold up to Snake nor 60. Curiously, the same year I picked up, unbeknownst to me, the first year Houde was offered.  An Instagram associate in HK recently posted some shots of his, so I gave Houde a visit after several-years’ hiatus.  Previous sessions where characterized as having a wretched cherry note and the lacking character of immaturity.  The recent session was actually quite pleasant, reminding me of that rotund gourmand extraordinaire.  Houde comes up because it’s from the same same year as the brick.  Houde is classed as an outstanding daily-drinker.  Productions from ’12-’16 are nowhere to be found in cake form but there are still some bricks around, which might indicate some batch variation.  Houde and the brick are in similar neighborhoods, with the former being slightly more durable.  Houde doesn’t approach the Snake or 60 either.  Tis time to circle back to 60 for now.

Whenever a treasure comes into form, a little fanfare is in order.  When it comes into form and is as good as the 60, then it’s positively time to sound the trumpets.  Pondering the finer points of 60 compared to 55 and Snake, both of the annual commemoratives were very tannic.  Befuddlement: recipes are highly guarded secrets.  At one time I would have said that by appearance alone that 55 was not 7581.  Filled with so many gold buds, “55” appears to be something else. . .  but for that matter every other 7581 is something else too, so it becomes extremely difficult to make any definitive calls even about what 7581 actually is.  The situation is complicated by storage variability, which is of incalculable importance.  Still, buds tend to make for a more tannic expression and for this reason alone it’s probably safe to assume that 55 is not 7581.  Another thing noticed about the 55 is that the qi seems to be getting more intense with the passing of each year, something not really noticed with the Snake, from which I’ve drunk much more parsimoniously.  After only a couple years the Snake appeared promising, in part because it wasn’t particularly tannic yet obviously already quite rich.  Frequent drinking would have only proven an indulgence at the expense of sampling productions about which there was less certainty in terms of it maturity and storage stability.  By Snake’s fifth year, through the fortune of plenty heat and humidity, a full explosion of petrichor and camphor emerged.

The 60 is victim of fairly stern compression, which in the long run may account for some of its splendor.  At 600g, size and compression mutually factor into the rate of transformation.  However, my cake has been drunk down to well less than 100g for over five years.  Interestingly, the 60 now is already much sweeter than the 55.  Blame it on 55‘s bud content. Naturally, not all recipes are crafted with the same sweetness in mind, as the delightful T8371 shows.  Conversely, 7581 should be unequivocally sweet and rich, barometers of maturity, storage, and quality.  By these measures, 60 has earned its trumpet, having not only become ready but also expressing some of the best that  7581 has to offer.

Recap

Ripes age.  The 7581 is a trailblazing ripe recipe, but not really meant to be expensive.  Nonetheless vintage, processing, storage, and age variability contributes to considerable variation in price.  Fermentation styles of ripes vary.  The maturation of 60 comes at year 14 of its evolution, which is roughly about the same amount of time required of 55.  Invariably, each offering has its charm.  The berry and cream in the ’12 brick stands in contrast to the dense petrichor and camphor of the Snake both have their place.  The 60, not for sale, is remarkably similar to the LCGC’s 0081, itself inspired by the ripe paragon, 7581.

Cheers!

Five Puerh (Im)Possibilities?

Posted on by Yang-chu
03 May

Puerh Junky got to thinking of Five Puerh (Im)Possibilities.  The title sounded nice, so why not just run with it?  They’re puerh musings upon offerings currently feeling neglected (CFN).  You see, most of the newer arrivals receive the bulk of attention. Listed puerhs have already gained storage stability, so attention naturally goes toward actively evolving items (AEI).  AEIs necessitate more drinking to ascertain their level of readiness.  It’s less about drinking for pleasure than for readiness.

So below, CFNs are given their day in the sun.  Many of these have been visited in the past 10 days (today is May 3, 2024).

’04 Uncle Creme Florale vs ’11 Creme Florale

Somewhere in an imaginary universe, Uncle Creme Florale and Creme Florale meet.  Unfortunately, poor Uncle had not been visited for the better part of a year (presently spring ’24).  It has always performed consistently, exhibiting a strong yet soothing presence.  Conversely, the nephew has been one of the better sellers.  A recent shipment necessitated adjudging relative differences in storage.  This latest iteration (Mar ’24) expresses a greater underlying humid character than the previous two.  It doesn’t reveal itself till after the fourth infusion.  Astringency is also greatly diminished, making for a far smoother drinking experience.  I got it at such a good price, I put it on sale.

The greatest difference between the two is that despite its chronological age, Uncle is younger. . .  not by a whole lot.  Both are super delicious.  The Uncle is shrouded in sultry vanilla. There’s also some anise with just a vintage Lily-of-the-Valley kiss coming emerging on the back end.  The sweetness level and the lasting vanilla in the mouth will make it your favourite Uncle for sure.  It’s now more  even more of what made it so delicious to start.  ’11 Creme Florale has matured greatly.  There’s more roundness and complexity in a humid orchid waltz.  MKRS vibrancy emerges with each infusion.  It’s starting to reflect attributes of the vaunted Tiger.

’07 Mincemeat vs ’07/’08 Water Blue Mark

Whereas PJ is less certain about the batch processing of Fuhai, maker of Mincemeat, at least the procedure for designating batch differences with Zhongcha (aka ChinaTea) maker of Water Blue Mark, is presumably understood.  The last tasting of both Mincemeat and ’08 WBM was shortly before the new year ’24, both being backorders from different but familiar vendors.  The vendor of the ’08 audaciously claimed “first batch” (charging as much), but only being second.  Pretty infuriating.  There’s a significant difference between batches and the only reason for venturing into ’08s in the first place was because first batch ’07s couldn’t be sourced.

Pouting aside, WBM ’08 is mossy, with camphor, hidden spice notes, and a lingering vanilla and minerality.  Durable, nice texture and sweetness, not garishly sweet.  It is nothing like the ’07 or Mincemeat.  The comments on astringency in the product description no longer apply.  It’s very balanced in this regard.  The descriptor “peat” is often used to describe a mineral, vegetal quality, “mossy” takes this expression another level altogether, lichens by a forest brook, if you will. Petrichor isn’t just for ripes anymore.  That’s the taste!  A seriously wet petrichor note, i.e. moss.  Vastly different from the ’07 and actually in the neighbourhood of the ’03 7536, Fuhai.The spice from Mincemeat is now more an afterthought, as either this batch or due to evolutionary forces it’s moved into the plum zone with a blend of wood and kerosene in the aftertaste.  There’s no pencil shavings and the kerosene simply constitutes a nice compliment to the plum.  Mincement continues to impress, though Puerh Junky cannot help but feel a bit wistful for the complex spice symphony it previously expressed.

If a Jade Mark Falls in the Woods. . . 

Would anybody buy it?  In the course of the never-ending shuffle and reconnaissance that is the Puerh Junky Cave, a single Jade Mark turned up.  Right about May ’24 marks its 10th anniversary.  It’s also included among the “Most Popular” sampler set.

What if the Silver Pekoe from Tulin, 6FTM, and MKRS had a Battle Royale?

Tales of the tape: Tulin ’06, 100g, tuo, Wuliang; 6FTM ’06, 357g, cake, Menghai; MKRS ’09, 150g, mini-iron cake, Mengku.
What on earth is “silver pekoe” anyway?  It’s the hairy buds, Igor.The Tulin and MKRS have very similar profiles, being dry-stored and packing a punch that many find appealing in terms of mouthfeel and aftertaste.  The taste itself is something PJ associates with dryer sheets, something “church lady” perfumy with fleeting hints of cantaloupe and maybe strawberry.  That fleeting berry is more notional in the MKRS.  The emphasis is church lady, with a fair measure of church-lady bitterness, and an impression that stays with you long after she’s left your presence.   This trait is an aspect of camphor, which when subjected to more heat and humidity orange-juice sourness before becoming explosively menthol-y (i.e., camphory).  MKRS isn’t listed yet but you’re welcome to ask.

The first two sips of the 6FTM initiates the qi response.  The 6FTM storage box is accessed less than any of the other, allowing for serious storage action to set in.  There an immediate mushroom note billowing from the gaiwan as the water is poured.  It’s not humidity.  It’s mushroom.  By the time the liquor is poured, honeysuckle billows from the pitcher.  The texture is light, the huigan intense, honeysuckle reverberating.  Very pleasant huigan, sweetness.  Cheese in the first infusion before assuming a more aggressive posture, thicker texture, more bitterness, much stronger floral force in the mouth with the mushroom singing harmony.

Last Orange Mark Standing

I wouldn’t call Orange Mark (BZ OG) citrus.  Citrus expresses varying degrees of florality and sourness.  Jade Mark, for example has expressed citrus notes and I often pick up grapefruit notes in various productions.  Orange Mark, on the other hand, is “orange” flavour.  After opening and sitting for about four hours the thickness is greater and the sweetness is at candy level, coating the tongue in orange-y sweetness.  There’s only one remaining.

Wrap-up

So there you have it.  The Currently Feeling Neglected (CFN) have had their chance to show their stuff.  The ’08 Water Blue Mark was definitely the biggest surprise, though hardly should have been complaining about neglect having only arrived in Nov ’23.  Perhaps had we been moving into autumn the Uncle would have beat it out.  The aged vanilla intensity is. . . intensifying.  Orange and Jade Marks and the Silver Pekoe, 6FTM strike this drinker as more in tune with the melody of spring.

Cheers!

March ’24 Puerh Musings

Posted on by Yang-chu
05 Mar

March ’24 Puerh Musings must be prefaced by commentary upon the ventures of some individual(s) who thought it necessary to scrawl my personal FB postings to otherwise disaffect those who might be affected by my views on matters entirely unrelated to tea. I’d like to dedicate this post to them and hope whatever ventures upon which they engage beyond defamation do well.  For what it’s worth, I do not retract one scintilla of what I’ve posted.  At the same time, I do not care to belabour matters about which most have very little discernment, which has essentially been my life purpose.  I welcome any interlocutors who are of good faith, but it should be noted that were I a conventionalisto, then that which I’ve been able to offer would be off the radar because I’d be too busy adhering to “herdism,” that which is anathema to my being. . . eh?  (though I’m not Canadian)

We now resume with the third-person lens where we find the Puerh Junky moving from the kitchen of burping cabbage fermented concoctions to the front room alcove, where he crafts his “musings.”  He has designs to discuss the few Zhongcha/Chinatea offerings upon which he’s been sitting as well as some Xinghai and other productions that have been sitting in the cave for a while.  In particular, he feels that there have been some ripes deserving mention.  He’ll start there.

Leap Week LME Ripes

Leap Week LME Ripes occurred spontaneously.  For clarity’s sake, LME stands for the Laoman’e brand and not the terroir, per se, though all of their productions seem to come the three same terroir: Bulang, Nannuo, and Banzhang.  All LME ripe offerings can be characterized as rich and dense, having full fermentation.  There’s full mouthfeel and considerable bitter finish.  This bitterness is likely their most distinguishing feature.  They provide a range of entry points in terms of price.  Prices for widely available productions tend to hold steady, but the Arbor King and BZ Peacock have shown movement to the upside, the latter being a rather extraordinary offering.

The week started out with the ’12 Arbor King, which proved to be its poorest performance ever.  Typically, there’s a cherry note that accompanies its intensity but this time it could not be detected and it was definitely on the flat papery side.  It’s not likely the storage, at the same time AK has not been temperamental.  The best guess is the weather and I’ll be sure to revisit in the next month or two for latest developments.  Overall, I found the visit disappointing and a later visit in the week proved no better, even after airing a bit.

I recently picked up three more ’11 Orchid Vibe.  It’s a good price and I’ve enjoyed the vanilla, along with a fermentation that’s a bit lighter than the others, though by no means light.  I stored it in the ripe big box.  The taste is vastly different from the past with much more wood resin.  It seemed quite similar to the Langhe Ripe Tuo, though they’re stored in different places.  Overall quality and character are solid, but the personality differs greatly from any previous session in tasting for a number of years now.  Again, must be the rainy-season effects.

By this time, the Puerh Junky had a fancy to test a LCGC ripe acquired in Nov ’23.  A more exhaustive write-up on LCGC ripes will be in order some time this year ’24.  The year ’23 had Puerh Junky more curious about their ripes.  It proved a good change of pace, as it brought the LME ripe house style into greater relief.  The greatest difference?  Sweetness.  The LCGC possesses a light molasses and Wheat Chex quality.  The sweetness adds a layer of thickness, though it’s not sticky sweet.  Since Old Geezers which sold out to a local fiend, I haven’t found such a production.

Finally, there was the ’06 Nannuo, LME. It’s in the ripe sampler set #4. This was sampled straight from storage and twice thence in the same week.  Each time, totally blind, PJ’s wife made remarks whereas none of the others elicited a peep.  The Nannuo, of which, I’ve picked up three more in a most recent order (yet to be received), possesses a layer of Vienna Fingers vanilla cookie.  There’s a top layer of this with the LME house bitter finish.  Still is not remarkably sweet.

All were brewed in my ripe pot 10-12g about 3m to start at same or upward with about four infusions.  No vegetal at all.  Prices for these between in the $60s-110.  Samples avail in Sampler U or on respective page.

Zhongcha

Zhongcha is ChinaTea.  I’m trying to get use to using that name more frequently.  They’re a full-range outfit but most of that which Puerh Junky offers is in the “peoples” and midrange priced offerings.  There have been a few individuals who’ve examined the leaves and made critical remarks, then showing me Chenshenghao’s yedi.  I’ve not endevoured to portray my ZC’s on par with CSH’s, but when I look at such monochromatic leaves, I immediately suspect blow drying.  No bueno.  In any event, Zhongcha has presented itself as a volume seller of casual drinkers that “the people” can afford.  Until ’14 they adhered to strict processing methods that didn’t pander to quick-sweet tastes.  Furthermore, they’re iconic and worth visiting for a sense of classic puerh history.   Since ’07 the Zhongcha brand has been synonymous with Kunming TF, though there’s an out layer or two.  Initial forays into Zhongcha were with the ’07 offerings, with a few offered as late as ’16.  In ’23, I ventured into a few ’06 and ’08 with generally positive findings but much different from the ’07s that had served as a centerpiece of acquisition from between ’14-’20.  Astringency is much greater in the ’06 and ’08s.

During the leap week I visited two relatively recent productions, the ’12 Mangosteen and the ’13 Bulang Shengtai.  I had to sit the Mangosteen out for two weeks after first test.  There’s a very high-pitched camphor note that may only be detected by mouth cooling for newbies.  There a middle note of aged fruit, plum possibly, with a zing of erstwhile mangosteen, but a wicked astringency that is altogether not in comportment with the house style as I know it.  I’m still not offering, though I’ve had on hand since ’14, only offering to those confident about their storage.  Having tracked essentially since inception, two more years seems the minimum.  It has maximo classical processing and I’m optimistic given it innate character.  First batch, late March/early April.  It’s bona fide and taking it time.  At least three on hand.

The ’13 Bulang Shengtai has been more fudged in processing if the Mangosteen serves as any comparison  The sugars have already come in, an overall fruity character, having an element of bitterness.  Zen front, fruit second, not unfriendly.  Easy. Everyday drinker.  A good candidate for one unfamiliar with 10yr plus productions that have been only moderately fired.  The wrapper is iconic, but if I’m resorting to wrapper I cannot be all that taken.  It’s very possible that it’s just early.  The 10yr spot is just for starters, nothing negative, seasonal factors included.  Fine.  Much better than two years ago.  Again, the sugars are present but Zen needs some differentiation from bland.  A good conservative starter for testing your brewing method.  I’m expecting more with the the weather changes, say late Aug.  Hit me up.  I won’t raise price in next two years.  I plan to post on a Zhongcha page at the latest by May ’24.

Xinghai

Xinghai grabbing continued afoot in ’23.  Now is a time for proper testing the first stage.  We’ll visit the ’07 Oasis Odyssey, ’07 Paolo Santo, and the ”06 Treasured.  I also tried the ’06 Bulang GS, which is prolly issued under ’07, but I’m willing to give it some time.  Let’s start with the Oasis Odyssey.

Oasis Odyssey seems to have been acquired in May ’23, offered in Nov of the same year.   Over time, it has traversed from oily purple to the typical astringent XH personality with good salivation effect as opposed to drying.  Mostly in the Zen Class.  Compression is massive.  The purple has diminished in expression.  Balanced sweetness.  We’ll have to observe how it evolves in relation to the changes of the seasons.  I’m looking for more oil and purple as last year.

The ’07 Paolo Santo tuo has me rather excited.  It’s a second batch production that has lemon and wood attributes.  I can easily see how the first round would be much more expensive.  No smoke, high limonene wood expression, not too sweet. smattering of bitter.  It’s not available presently, as I only acquired in Nov ’23 but around May ’24 will be.  Bright wood bitter, lemonime, complex, nice.  It’s very promising.  Not sweet but quintessentially Xinghai.  Qi is overall warming and settling.

Finally, there is the Treasured, acquired in Jun ’23.  It has yet to be listed, but one of the projects for the Xinghai Raw page two.  Treasured is the second batch.  It’s in the Tobacco Class, possibly approaching tequila.  Not atomically pressed, with a nice balance of smoked wood, wood resin, sweetness, and astringency.  Probably the most notable element regards storage.  Most productions require the proper treatment that these LA environs provide.  Even then, it takes several months to bring them into a form that make them presentable.  It’s needed every bit of the nine months to come to form.  It’ll appear on the XH second page for certain.

Wrap up

March ’24 Puerh Musings have covered a range of raws and ripes.  The ripes were confined to Puerh Junky’s LME offerings, while raws involved Zhongcha and Xinghai productions.  LME ripes stand out for their bitter finish.  ZC’s ’12 Mangosteen is showing promise, but the astringency is a bit of a hair raiser presently, so it’ll sit at least till after the summer.  The ’13 Bulang Shengtai will be posted soon on a page with a few other others.  The Xinghai visits covered two productions that will also be listed soon.  If all goes well, at the latest mid-May.  Each has a distinctive profile and all being second batches are very reasonably priced:  Oasis Odyssey is Zen with balanced sweetness; Paolo Santo is as the name suggests with remarkable qi; Treasured offers wood complexity of Tobacco Class.  Paolo Santo is also Tobacco Class, but possesses a vastly different quality from Treasured, more closely resembling their Green Peacock.

Water Blue Mark Comments

Posted on by Yang-chu
13 Dec

Water Blue Mark Comments pertain to the timeliness of this production given the need for a woolen sweater.  Puerh Junky scored just the last of this production from a particular vendor, so more was able to be procured. . . at a good price.

Water Blue Mark is a Green Mark of a certain character that merited another name.  It has a smoky fruity flavour and depending on certain variables like season, infusion methods, and aging varies in its expression.  It’s one of the few KMTF expressions that I though was Dayi in nature.

It seems others have picked up on this.  The offerings still avail are more than 3X than when originally offered perhaps around ’19.  I won’t be able to speak for the next round arriving; my buyer sent pics of seven separate cakes that should have otherwise been in tong.

I can speak for the four still on hand.  It’s a good tea for the winter.

Puerh Junky Visits Thick Zen 2022

Posted on by Yang-chu
08 Nov

Puerh Junky Visits Thick Zen 2022 continues the saga surrounding one of the plethora of Zhongcha’s ’07 offerings looked at askance by puerh snobs too smart for their own good.  The Puerh Junky has written about the Thick Zen on numerous occasions and now, alas dear reader, we’re at the point where due to forces beyond his control Thick Zen has outlived its name.

Thick Zen continues to evolve.  Zen is more of an afterthought.  There’s all this tartness in it now, picking up in intensity.  As of Nov 2022, there’s orange spice bitter fusing with its Zen past, not terribly sweet but dreadfully interesting.  The shift with the season is magical.  The  once-lauded Yiwu vibe is about one quarter present, as bitterness and sour take the drinker to the Menghai zone, a nice Menghai not trying to intimidate but at the same time comfortable with being itself.  The qi numbs the entire face, makes you feel as though you had a halo beginning at the shoulder.  I read that the a ’21 production by the same name comes from Lincang, entirely possible with here.

Thick Zen is egregiously undervalued given just how dynamic the material is.  The persistent perception that ’07 productions are bad is gradually starting to lift.  The year ’07 witnessed a speculative blowout and specifically an administrative restructuring at Zhongcha that had zero to do with anything related to tea.  Somehow, word on the street became ’07 offerings could not be drunk.  This absurdity turns out to be a fortune for the value hunter.  Thick Zen is value amidst value, highly representative of the KMTF processing style, and over time far more engaging than most any other puerh.

Puerh Junky’s 2022 Visit Olympics

Posted on by Yang-chu
17 Aug

Puerh Junky’s 2022 Visit Olympics presents us with a tidy way of distinguishing this missive from those of previous years.  Suffice it to say that the ole Beijing Olympics has thrown yours truly yet another curve.  Beijing Olympics still proves to be one of the most enigmatic among the Collection.  Let’s begin.

Previous posts have noted a waxiness and fuzziness in Beijing Olympics taste.  The last tasting did not demonstrate this and anticipated a transition to dark fruit notes and wood.  In that session, Puerh Junky noted that the BJO had definitely turned a corner toward an generally more pleasing and less cryptic experience.  As far as being a tastier experience, this remains true but in terms of the direction it is taking. . . well.

Let’s back up.  Today 17 Aug 2022, I broke into a new cake which has been considerably drier stored than the cake from which I’ve been drinking the past few years.  Yes, it takes several years to get through a cake, as most drinking is dedicated to monitoring recent arrivals’ transition to their new climes here in LA.  I’m lucky if I get to productions that have been on hand for a spell more than twice a year.

A gander at BJO‘s leaves bore the appearance of a production from about 2014, making up some arbitrary year to fully convey just how young these leaves look.  Accordingly, the liquor is nearly clear with some vivid yellow.  The infusions 2-5 were about 3-3.5 in terms of clarity with the sixth being crystal clear and and a darker yellow.  The liquor seemed considerably lighter than any of the previous sessions.  I’ve begun to notice that some productions can actually go from dark to a lighter colour, which strikes me as super curious to say the least.

The taste and body mirror the colour.  There’s no flavour that jumps out and the tastes that are there are hard to identify.  It would be fair to say that the broth is not only Zen but thin.  Then the huigan kicks in.  I’ll get to that later.  The broth is definitely sweeter than ever.  It doesn’t have to compete with fuzziness, so it definitely stands out more than anything else.  It’s not super sweet but the sweetness is definitely pleasant and lasts throughout.  Regarding the blandness, I had two thoughts: maybe brewing in clay and/or more leafage would have been better.  I used about 5.5g in 90g gaiwan.

The aroma and taste sync at the early stage.  After about the 8th round the aroma takes on a vegetal character common with some ripes.  At the early stages, however, there’s a clear resin note that I can only most closely associate with hyssop and lemonene.  There is some citric acid sour in there but it’s hard to pinpoint the fruit, maybe about 25% apricot.  The lemonene note is not of lemons or other citrus.  Many other plants have that molecule, which is why I refer to the molecule and not lemons.

There’s other associations, cinnamon, marshmallow, vanilla, the usual cast of characters, later on Juicy Fruit.  You won’t taste much of it in the broth.  It’s all in a simply marvelous huigan.  Also, I tasted something like split pea or mung beans at infusion 7.  Is that the “yam” that people reference?  The Juicy Fruit made wonder if it’s a slight variant of the vaunted ZC Jia-Ji.

Back to the huigan and the hyssop.  Granted, you might not know that aroma.  It’s somewhere between 65% tea tree and 35% eucalyptus.  It’s camphor but it’s not the camphor of heavy storage.  The effect aggressively cools in the mouth, then you have all those flavours coming in behind it, with the sweetness and bits of sour.  This behavior continues from one infusion to the next.  Each cup you try to identify what you cannot taste in the broth and then sit there for a spell feeling the tingle in the mouth before the dryness passes, the sour and sweet kick in, and those complexities of flavour emerge.  Wash-rinse-repeat.

The qi become fully apparent at around infusion 4-5, heady and uplifting in the chest.  As the session continues and the brew is pushed, the qi sensation increases accordingly.  Although the colour darkens only marginally, BJO‘s age shines through as the session increases by never bottoming out.  The complex tastes in the huigan continue throughout without ever becoming astringent or signalling that you’ve reached that immaturity point.  It seems in fact, that the cinnamon becomes even more pronounced in later stages along with the Juicy Fruit.  There is “that veggie note” of ripes that is obvious in broth but thankfully it doesn’t carry over into into the huigan.  I really like how it feels in the chest.  The overall personality is cheerful and even expansive.  Even made me stretch my back a few times.

Beijing Olympics is a good time.  The material is clearly mostly eastern Lincang from the Bangdong area.

 

Puerh Junky Reform School

Posted on by Yang-chu
28 Apr

Puerh Junky Reform School is a post that is sure to leave many a puerh enthusiast crestfallen.  No. It’s not about reforming tattoo and piercing hipsters from the notion that that oolong-processed “gu-shu” from ’19 is puerh;  rather it’s about how the Puerh’s Junky continues to get schooled by some real late bloomers.  The reader is left crestfallen because his junkiness deigns to make out like his irascibility has been earned by developing a reservior of knowledge, while it becomes ever clearer that it is simply his posturing.

Those ’07s Turn 15

First of all we should start with those much disparaged Zhongcha ’07s, which turn 15 this year ’22.  Whereas treasures like the Thick Zen and Water Blue Mark blossomed two or three years ago, the same could not be said about the likes of the Pig, the Blue Mark Iron Cake, HK Returns Iron Cake, or Beijing Olympics.  Among these, certainly the the Pig continued to beg the question:  “Why or how could it be possible for the makers to produce such a crappy tea”?

Against my better judgement, I opened the Pig up a few weeks ago.  What a difference!  There’s no need to go into the gory details.  The takeaway is what’s important: that is many flat, boring, or crappy productions are simply not what you think they are and only time will reveal their secrets.  This boils down to processing, a subject that many including myself have discoursed upon a great deal.

’07 Pig, ZC

Whether the the old-school processing methods are better than the new-school ones is going to boil down to preference, intention. . . and disregard for the the time variable.  If one intends to store the newly processed ones, then it’s anyone’s guess what the results will be, compounded by the complexities of storage conditions.

Pig 2016

Pig 2022

I nearly destroyed my silver needle storing it among the raws, and similarly catastrophic results developed with a couple tasty Nahan, Lincang cakes.  It is clear that those puppies require a great deal more air than traditionally processed puerh.  Any fears that air will cause the treasure to lose its aromatic intensity and pizazz should be laid to rest.  The opposite is true.

’18 Nahan

Nahan 2018 Shot

The pinkishness to the hue of that pic is obvious.  Evidently, this is supposed to mean “glory.”  The material is no doubt good, but creatures of this sort are raised in the same pen as the Pig.

As market demand has driven demand for more puerh that can be drunk now increases, it appears that some of the newer methods have creeped into even how Zhongcha is making some of the older productions.  If the Lunar Series serves as any indication, we see that compression at the very least is one of the differences.  This in itself may be sufficient for allowing quicker transformation, but there’s more.

For example, there’s a huge difference in appearance between the of the ’07 Pig and the ’14 Horse.  Wholeness and choppness is going to impact the final result.  Ostensibly the Pig and Horse recipes are the same, comprised of primarily Lincang material with some Menghai thrown in.  However, the sweetness has already started to emerge with the Horse despite being seven years younger than the Pig.  They’ve both been stored here in Los Angeles for about the same amount of time.  It seems unlikely that this difference could be chalked up exclusively to compression, though it is imaginable that both required somewhere around the same amount of storage time under Los Angeles conditions to blossom, seven years.  Still, the Puerh Junky’s hunch is that there’s changes in processing that are driven by the market.

Pig w/ neifei and neipiao modesty

Horse brazenly immodest

The Lincang villages not including Mengku and Fengqing specialize in fruity expressions that are sweet very early.  This is due to processing.  However, old-school Zhongcha productions comprised of Lincang material are no more expressive at a young age than those from Yiwu.  The differences depend not in terroir but upon the ones processing the maocha, just how much they feel they can reasonably cook the tea without losing the intrinsic character.  Obviously, some have assumed a devil-may-care attitude knowing that the drinker hasn’t any inclination to store the production, so they cook the hell out of it. . . or is that into it?

Wrap-up

This confession has gone long enough.  I can think of at least three different productions that have been stored since before ’16 from the ’07ish time period that didn’t blossom till this year, all from different factories with varying measures of market cache.  Some of these productions are still not ready but do benefit from a good deal of cooking.  My experience with some of the Lincangs that have specialized in sweet processing longer than other regions is that they require different care from the old-school productions.  Even here, however, it seems that the craft tends toward more conservative processing the more special the production.  That is to say, real Xigui and Bingdao won’t get the fire of less recognized villages and even they will require some wait of a year or two.  That’s another reform school lesson for another time.  By the way, have you paid your tuition?

 

 

 

Bada Peacock: Hot to Trot

Posted on by Yang-chu
15 Feb

This just in: As of February 2022, the Bada Peacock is Hot to Trot.  Some time ago, the Puerh Junky did a side-by-side with Hideout.  Well, the Bada has left the Hideout in the dust.  At the time of that review, the Bada had a copper twang.  It’s no longer there.

Kunming TF productions aim for Zen.  The Bada Peacock is no exception.  There’s no bitterness here, nor any astringency.  Giving the leaves a good 15m soak and there is still zero of either.

In all its Zen, one thing distinguishing the BP from some of the other KMTF/Zhongcha offerings is its complete deviation from that fruit undertone so easily associated with the flagship jiaji (甲级), i.e., Top Notch Tuo, but also evident in the HK Returns, Water Blue Mark, and emerging in the Thick Zen, and presumably to appear in the Beijing Olympics and the still very young Mangosteen, a rough customer despite being from ’07 leaves before being pressed in ’12 (As an aside, it should be noted that HK Returns cake is still in a burly phase.).

Most ZC productions from ’06-’14 do not specify region or village, as the emphasis during this era was still on recipes, mostly some combo of eastern Lincang and Menghai/Bulang.  In this regard, BP is unique. The taste is pure rock sugar.  It’s very, very, sweet and this sweetness never wanes.

Ephemeral and ineffable.  You could drink and drink the Bada Peacock trying to figure it out.  The light floral note offers a nice accent to an sugary treat that doesn’t require much thought for an offering’s that’s hot to trot.