Getting Orders

The best part about getting orders is that it takes my mind off all the “new” arrivals.  A dragon pearl order had me stumble upon the ’14 Gedeng naked.

Prolly third infusion

Gedeng is one of the six famous tea mountains of Yunnan.  Don’t quote me but all the 6FTM are located in Yiwu.  I’ve had this since ’14 and listed in ’15, essentially.  The pic above is from ’15.

A little comparison in leaves. . .

2015

 

2020

But wait there’s more. . .

2021

Forgive the shoddy portraiture as I capture this Gedeng in its natural setting.  It seems to be a merciless creeper, astringency wise.  Seems to taste like glorified water.  What struck me was that the second and third infusions has a bit of bitterness that completely vanishes thereafter.  I’m about five infusions in and the first got about 3-5m.  It wasn’t overbearing in the least.  The fifth I gave a bit of stirring.  The pic above is infusion number five.

It then goes through a vous ja de aftertaste full of colour but utterly confusing because none of those tastes can be detected in the broth.  The immediate mouthfeel is a low buzz before wicked astringency, from the throat all along the tongue.  I haven’t felt like drinking something to offset that effect for quite a while.  It’s a tea of extremes.  I’m going to test with wife this evening.

 

Puerh Mini Tuo: Xigui GNZ

Our Puerh Mini tuo of concern is the ’14 Xigui GNZ.  It is an 8g dragon pearl, similar to the Dragon Pearl Sampler.  Dragon pearls are hand rolled balls of puerh tea. The care in processing and quality of the material is the best of the best.  Consequently, dragon pearls are a great way to learn about the hallmark traits of the various terrior.

Xigui is a terrior in Lincang with a taste profile closer to Bingdao, fruity and genteel, than Daxue Shan or Fengqing, which are black-tea floral by nature. This fruity genteel taste forms an interesting contrast to Yiwu puerh from terrior like Wangong or Yiwu ZS.  One of the biggest differences is how top-shelf Lincang pops out the gate.  In your face sweetness is highly suggestive of Lincang not Yiwu.

Xigui GNZ 3rd Infusion

When we “out the gate” raw puerh, we’re talking fewer than 10 years old.  Dragon pearl mini tuo obviously age faster than cakes, but their material is far better than what is affordable in cake size.  Xigui GNZ has aged in Los Angeles since ’15 under conditions probably averaging 70%/70 in terms of humidity to heat but healthy flux around the average.

In terms of quality the Xigui GNZ strikes me as being very good.  It doesn’t reach its stride until about the sixth infusion but up until then what it might lack in thickness is made up for in electric sweet cloud sensation.  Fully open there is thickness and sweet tropical fruit notes that linger long in the huigan.  There is some affinity with very high quality Bulang but the bitterness is a greatly muted feature.

This dragon pearl raw puerh lasted well into 15 infusions over three days.  When pushed the bitterness is more prominent but hardly challenging and vanishes quickly into sweetness.

 

 

2014 Hekai Dragon Pearl Photos

Here’s some shots of the 2014 Hekai Dragon Pearl puerh taken over the course of three separate years.  Hekai is a Bulang village.  It is often the chief component of mater constituting “Bulang” productions.  Here’s a chance to taste the pure Hekai taste.

2014 Hekai 2015 Shot

 

2014 Hekai Dragon Pearl 2018 Shot

 

2014 Hekai Dragon Pearl 2019 Shot

Let the pictures speak for themselves.  Brewed in porcelain, this puerh is a sweet and satisfying summer beverage.  The cashed leaves would be excellent for a cold brew.

 

Bitter Tea: LME Puerh Dragon Pearl

The Lao Man E (LME) Puerh Dragon Pearl is a top-shelf study in bitter tea.  LME, distinguish from the brand, is a village within the Bulang mountain range.  It is next to Lao Banzhang (LBZ), the most famous village of the region, but also including Banpen, Hekai, and a few others.

Similar to LBZ, hallmark LME should be bitter vanishing into sweet.  When I bought this five years ago, it was the vendor’s most expensive offering. . . before coming to the ones priced in the stratosphere, Xigui, Bingdao, and LBZ.  I only bought a few and this is my second time enjoying.

Before fully opening, the puerh potion is sweet and light.  My wife astutely picked up some grapefruit notes.  The first three infusions were relatively long, stopping after four rounds.  An intimidating fifth infusion of 10s four hours later, had me back off to flash brewing what is nowa  total of 12 infusions.  It’s still going strong.  I anticipate at least eight more.

This dragon pearl has a seriously bitter taste, like grapefruit peel, complete with complex citrus essential oils.  Exhalations from the nostrils amplify those notes.  This bitterness bears a close relationship to Bitter Nail tea, particularly since Bitter Nail cannot be construed as astringent.  The LME is not rough like an immature production.  The qi noticeably relaxes and gets the skin glowing a bit.

I didn’t know what I was drinking the first time I had this.  Understanding that there is a category bitter tea helps to orient one’s taste buds.  Bitter tea is never going to be a fav, but it is nice to appreciate the personality of a high quality production.  It provides an unmistakable if ephemeral frame of reference for distinguishing between qualities of bitterness.

2014 Naked Gedeng Dragon Pearl

I’m at infusion number eight of this little treasure.  I looked back to what I wrote before.  The aroma of this is floral and it is the same as what can be tasted in the broth when you hold it in your mouth.  Whatever bitterness that I may have detected in the past is totally absent, but the astringency of this is a noteworthy feature.

You may have trouble talking as your lips stick to your teeth it’s so astringent.  Since writing about it two years ago, the floral essence seems to stand out more.  The thickness is exquisite sliding down easily and its colour is now a shimmering gold.  I am 10 infusions in and at 10 seconds and water at about 180 it is going strong.

I know someone is saying, “Ah-ha,” you’re faking it by using *artifically* low temperatures.  Viscosity is a more important control for me than temperature per se.  If a lower temperature is producing thick tasty pots, then there’s no need to up the temperature, particularly for young raws.  I rarely seem to be able to wait long enough for the pot to cool.  Even when blowing on the cup, it’s often still too hot.  This is more than a matter of convenience, because fullest taste is not at a particularly high temperature.  Why must brewing be so terribly different?  Should a high-quality production require more or less temperature to release its stuff?  And still, what do the temperature adherents make of the concept of scorched leaves?

I digress…

Though the astringency hangs on for quite a spell, alas there is only a faint afterthought of some ancient and forgotten fruit left in the mouth.  At eleven the thickness has remained but the fragrance has started to fade.  The sweet juicy broth remains.  I’m going to start to up the infusion time.