Championship Round: Ripe Puerh

The Championship Round of the Ripe Puerh Challenge commenced on 14th June ’24.  Three contestants performed and that day, followed by the last two on the 15th.  Parameters for the championship round differed from the initial round in that 1) contenders sat out for about five days, 2) only two rounds drunk for each, with the second pushed considerably.  Initial round and championship round differed considerably.  In retrospect, all of the contenders reached the championship round in the first place because they performed best straight from storage.  This is to say that no production performed better than straight from storage.  This serves to reason as they all expressed stellar qualities to get them to the championship round in the first place.  This is not to say, however, that the duration for airing was too long.  For example, airing Merlot for only about 18 hrs dramatically increased its performance, while a cake (Hailanghao’s ’05 Jinseming) with an especially innovative fermentation approach on hand for 14yrs performed best it ever has after sitting out for more than two weeks.

Second, a pushed infusion doesn’t necessarily make for the most enjoyable drinking experience, though it does get to the innate character of the production.  Under ordinary circumstances, diluting or stacking of shorter infusions would have been in order.  Still, apprehending the innate character reveals more about the underlying material of the production itself.  Here, there’s no mistaking Yiwu with Menghai.

55, Zhongcha #1  Champion.

Zhongcha’s ’06 “55” commemorative continues evolving along a path of deepening sophistication.  Curiously, Baidu states that it is part of the 7581 series, which either seems wrong or raises more questions than it answers about what precisely “7581 series” constitutes.   No other 7581 is as populated with gold buds as the “55.”  One would think that “series” signals some established standard of material, fermentation, and other processing variables, but this doesn’t seem to be the case.  A previous entry discusses this.

Highlights: Bitterness, piney camphor, incense, cream, balanced sweetness, mushroom, cocoa deliciousness, big qi, cuts phlegm

Ripe Participants

  • Yiwu Commission, DQZ
    Creamy sweet, bitter finish, smooth, chocolate milk–> the second round push exhibited that Yiwu smoove, zero humid notes.
  • BZ Peacock King, LME
    Bitter!  Crazy clarity, dark chocolate then cream, piques salivation, icy-hot camphor, cotton mouth, light incense, cheeky–> would definitely have diluted second round.
  • Operation Macau, XH commission
    High camphor cream aroma, dry newspaper hint, slate, cream aftertaste, piques salivation; cream forward, camphor finish w/ mineral accent, bittersweet cacao, touch of roast, late aftertaste slight sour–> sweetest expression from first to second infusion by far.
  • Silver Peacock, XH
    Malty cream and roast, glass smooth, pecan, vanilla, bittersweet aftertaste–> even-Steven from first to second.

Ripe participants are probably listed in the order in which they placed, though personal preference increasingly trumps quality as they’re all good. Here’s a link to try for yourself.  Scroll down for “champions” selection. It consists of 16g of each participant.  The link will remain active till about 14th Jul ’24.

Spring Ripe Puerh Taste Off V

The evening prior to Spring Ripe Puerh Taste Off IV major domos (or is that doma) Ruan, Zhang, and Du met up for an evening repast of crawfish hotpot with lots of pea greens and limitless enoki.  The following day featured Mme Zhang’s third or fourth performance, while it would be the first for Mmes Ruan, of 6FTM, and Du.  They chatted some about the old days at Menghai TF but mostly the deliciousness of the enoki, the freshness of the crawfish, and nuance of the Sichuan-style broth.  If Domo Zhang appeared more relaxed than her compatriots, if she found the crawfish just a smidge juicier, then it no doubt could be attributed to her already having Operation Macau advance to championship round earlier in the day.  Day V uncertainties weighted in the minds of Domos Du and Ruan.  Let’s get down to the day’s action.

Spring Ripe Puerh Taste Off IV

  • ’02 Purple Mark, 6FTM
    Light cocoa, Tootsie roll, slight camphor, strong qi, super velvet mouthfeel.
  • ’06 T8371, Zhongcha
    Light oud, balance, hint of red hots, astringency, bitterness, petrichor, big aroma, cocoa, camphor, brut.
  • ’05 Yiwu Commission, Du Qiong-zhi
    Magical aroma in dry pot, bright, buttery, camphor, medium to light body, pine, not so sweet, noticeable qi presence.
  • ’08 Golden Tribute, Xinghai
    Lively dry aroma, bittersweet, cocoa, oreo cookie.

Occupying opposite extremes of dark chocolate bitter punishment are the Purple Mark and Golden TributePurple Mark is one of the oldest contestants, second only to Drury Lane.  They perform similarly.  Airing considerably improves performance.  Straight from storage, it’s a lot like flat pop, silkiness aside.  Golden Tributes ferocity in no way detracted from it’s performance, contending strongly for the top spot.  It’s currently not listed, only three on hand.

This brings us to the two commissions.  The T8371 holds distinction as being a HK commission.  Judging from the recipe numbers, it’s a slight variant of the classic 7581, key being its light fermentation.  This was T8371‘s heftiest performance, entering a new fermentation stage.  Not to sound like a broken record, but it needed some airing.  The plug-n-playability of productions often depends upon the season.  Each production has it’s own personality.  Every production came straight from storage.  No babying allowed.  It’s more than plausible that results would differ in another season.  The red hots note is new exciting addition to an already excellent performer.

Process of elimination leads to the Yiwu Commission as the winner.  Spring has treated this contestant most generously.  The complexity of flavours with all-enveloping camphor pleased all drinkers.  It held up throughout the day, while the Golden Tribute settled into less distinctive expression.  Through the course of five days of mostly drinking Menghai productions, the buttery Yiwu not formed quite an extravagant contrast.  Major Domo Du will be advancing to the championship round.

 

Spring Ripe Puerh Taste Off

In a fictitious land far away, Spring Ripe Taste Off takes place yearly at the time of the May sumo tournament.  This year the taste-off has been configured such that for four consecutive days four different ripe puerhs will be sampled side-by-side.  The winners from each of the four days will advance to the championship round.

Ripe Taste-Off Day 1

  • ’11 Peacock Gold, Fuhai
    Roasty.  Lustrous.  Minerally.  Cacao.  Solid intro to ripe puerh: not funky, not fruity, not requiring thought or effort.  Medium density.
  •  ’06 “55,” Zhongcha
    Camphor ( aka “minty”), petrichor, red-hots, incense, strong qi. Sweet.  Complex.
  • ’05 Haiwan Wild Mt, Haiwan
    Strawberries-n-cream, light body, moderate sweetness, no bitter, splendid clarity.  Nice qi. Neifei coolness.
  • ’14 Puerh Espresso
    Rich, chocolately, dense, heady.

Each pot contained 10.5g tea, but brew times were as seen fit.  No point system or anything, just drinking experience.  The 55 come out on top with two drinkers agreeing that it was best.  We were divided on all the rest.  The density of the Puer Espresso unquestionably was strongest and its qi frankly too extreme.  Haiwan was softest and of lightest body, while the Peacock Gold being most middle of the road.

It worth noting that 55 is a light-ferment production, most evidenced by its slow transformation, lack of sweetness, and wicked astringency, making it more like a black tea.  In many regards, it could be evaluated by the same standards of a raw puerh.  However, after turning 15 it started to show its promise.  The second buying of this production came from a Henan seller who had it stored under rather desiccated conditions.  After some LA lovin’ imparting petrichor depth, this dry layer has transformed to incense, also no doubt aided by the wealth of gold buds.

Five Puerh (Im)Possibilities?

Puerh Junky got to thinking of Five Puerh (Im)Possibilities.  The title sounded nice, so why not just run with it?  They’re puerh musings upon offerings currently feeling neglected (CFN).  You see, most of the newer arrivals receive the bulk of attention. Listed puerhs have already gained storage stability, so attention naturally goes toward actively evolving items (AEI).  AEIs necessitate more drinking to ascertain their level of readiness.  It’s less about drinking for pleasure than for readiness.

So below, CFNs are given their day in the sun.  Many of these have been visited in the past 10 days (today is May 3, 2024).

’04 Uncle Creme Florale vs ’11 Creme Florale

Somewhere in an imaginary universe, Uncle Creme Florale and Creme Florale meet.  Unfortunately, poor Uncle had not been visited for the better part of a year (presently spring ’24).  It has always performed consistently, exhibiting a strong yet soothing presence.  Conversely, the nephew has been one of the better sellers.  A recent shipment necessitated adjudging relative differences in storage.  This latest iteration (Mar ’24) expresses a greater underlying humid character than the previous two.  It doesn’t reveal itself till after the fourth infusion.  Astringency is also greatly diminished, making for a far smoother drinking experience.  I got it at such a good price, I put it on sale.

The greatest difference between the two is that despite its chronological age, Uncle is younger. . .  not by a whole lot.  Both are super delicious.  The Uncle is shrouded in sultry vanilla. There’s also some anise with just a vintage Lily-of-the-Valley kiss coming emerging on the back end.  The sweetness level and the lasting vanilla in the mouth will make it your favourite Uncle for sure.  It’s now more  even more of what made it so delicious to start.  ’11 Creme Florale has matured greatly.  There’s more roundness and complexity in a humid orchid waltz.  MKRS vibrancy emerges with each infusion.  It’s starting to reflect attributes of the vaunted Tiger.

’07 Mincemeat vs ’07/’08 Water Blue Mark

Whereas PJ is less certain about the batch processing of Fuhai, maker of Mincemeat, at least the procedure for designating batch differences with Zhongcha (aka ChinaTea) maker of Water Blue Mark, is presumably understood.  The last tasting of both Mincemeat and ’08 WBM was shortly before the new year ’24, both being backorders from different but familiar vendors.  The vendor of the ’08 audaciously claimed “first batch” (charging as much), but only being second.  Pretty infuriating.  There’s a significant difference between batches and the only reason for venturing into ’08s in the first place was because first batch ’07s couldn’t be sourced.

Pouting aside, WBM ’08 is mossy, with camphor, hidden spice notes, and a lingering vanilla and minerality.  Durable, nice texture and sweetness, not garishly sweet.  It is nothing like the ’07 or Mincemeat.  The comments on astringency in the product description no longer apply.  It’s very balanced in this regard.  The descriptor “peat” is often used to describe a mineral, vegetal quality, “mossy” takes this expression another level altogether, lichens by a forest brook, if you will. Petrichor isn’t just for ripes anymore.  That’s the taste!  A seriously wet petrichor note, i.e. moss.  Vastly different from the ’07 and actually in the neighbourhood of the ’03 7536, Fuhai.The spice from Mincemeat is now more an afterthought, as either this batch or due to evolutionary forces it’s moved into the plum zone with a blend of wood and kerosene in the aftertaste.  There’s no pencil shavings and the kerosene simply constitutes a nice compliment to the plum.  Mincement continues to impress, though Puerh Junky cannot help but feel a bit wistful for the complex spice symphony it previously expressed.

If a Jade Mark Falls in the Woods. . . 

Would anybody buy it?  In the course of the never-ending shuffle and reconnaissance that is the Puerh Junky Cave, a single Jade Mark turned up.  Right about May ’24 marks its 10th anniversary.  It’s also included among the “Most Popular” sampler set.

What if the Silver Pekoe from Tulin, 6FTM, and MKRS had a Battle Royale?

Tales of the tape: Tulin ’06, 100g, tuo, Wuliang; 6FTM ’06, 357g, cake, Menghai; MKRS ’09, 150g, mini-iron cake, Mengku.
What on earth is “silver pekoe” anyway?  It’s the hairy buds, Igor.The Tulin and MKRS have very similar profiles, being dry-stored and packing a punch that many find appealing in terms of mouthfeel and aftertaste.  The taste itself is something PJ associates with dryer sheets, something “church lady” perfumy with fleeting hints of cantaloupe and maybe strawberry.  That fleeting berry is more notional in the MKRS.  The emphasis is church lady, with a fair measure of church-lady bitterness, and an impression that stays with you long after she’s left your presence.   This trait is an aspect of camphor, which when subjected to more heat and humidity orange-juice sourness before becoming explosively menthol-y (i.e., camphory).  MKRS isn’t listed yet but you’re welcome to ask.

The first two sips of the 6FTM initiates the qi response.  The 6FTM storage box is accessed less than any of the other, allowing for serious storage action to set in.  There an immediate mushroom note billowing from the gaiwan as the water is poured.  It’s not humidity.  It’s mushroom.  By the time the liquor is poured, honeysuckle billows from the pitcher.  The texture is light, the huigan intense, honeysuckle reverberating.  Very pleasant huigan, sweetness.  Cheese in the first infusion before assuming a more aggressive posture, thicker texture, more bitterness, much stronger floral force in the mouth with the mushroom singing harmony.

Last Orange Mark Standing

I wouldn’t call Orange Mark (BZ OG) citrus.  Citrus expresses varying degrees of florality and sourness.  Jade Mark, for example has expressed citrus notes and I often pick up grapefruit notes in various productions.  Orange Mark, on the other hand, is “orange” flavour.  After opening and sitting for about four hours the thickness is greater and the sweetness is at candy level, coating the tongue in orange-y sweetness.  There’s only one remaining.

Wrap-up

So there you have it.  The Currently Feeling Neglected (CFN) have had their chance to show their stuff.  The ’08 Water Blue Mark was definitely the biggest surprise, though hardly should have been complaining about neglect having only arrived in Nov ’23.  Perhaps had we been moving into autumn the Uncle would have beat it out.  The aged vanilla intensity is. . . intensifying.  Orange and Jade Marks and the Silver Pekoe, 6FTM strike this drinker as more in tune with the melody of spring.

Cheers!

March ’24 Puerh Musings

March ’24 Puerh Musings must be prefaced by commentary upon the ventures of some individual(s) who thought it necessary to scrawl my personal FB postings to otherwise disaffect those who might be affected by my views on matters entirely unrelated to tea. I’d like to dedicate this post to them and hope whatever ventures upon which they engage beyond defamation do well.  For what it’s worth, I do not retract one scintilla of what I’ve posted.  At the same time, I do not care to belabour matters about which most have very little discernment, which has essentially been my life purpose.  I welcome any interlocutors who are of good faith, but it should be noted that were I a conventionalisto, then that which I’ve been able to offer would be off the radar because I’d be too busy adhering to “herdism,” that which is anathema to my being. . . eh?  (though I’m not Canadian)

We now resume with the third-person lens where we find the Puerh Junky moving from the kitchen of burping cabbage fermented concoctions to the front room alcove, where he crafts his “musings.”  He has designs to discuss the few Zhongcha/Chinatea offerings upon which he’s been sitting as well as some Xinghai and other productions that have been sitting in the cave for a while.  In particular, he feels that there have been some ripes deserving mention.  He’ll start there.

Leap Week LME Ripes

Leap Week LME Ripes occurred spontaneously.  For clarity’s sake, LME stands for the Laoman’e brand and not the terroir, per se, though all of their productions seem to come the three same terroir: Bulang, Nannuo, and Banzhang.  All LME ripe offerings can be characterized as rich and dense, having full fermentation.  There’s full mouthfeel and considerable bitter finish.  This bitterness is likely their most distinguishing feature.  They provide a range of entry points in terms of price.  Prices for widely available productions tend to hold steady, but the Arbor King and BZ Peacock have shown movement to the upside, the latter being a rather extraordinary offering.

The week started out with the ’12 Arbor King, which proved to be its poorest performance ever.  Typically, there’s a cherry note that accompanies its intensity but this time it could not be detected and it was definitely on the flat papery side.  It’s not likely the storage, at the same time AK has not been temperamental.  The best guess is the weather and I’ll be sure to revisit in the next month or two for latest developments.  Overall, I found the visit disappointing and a later visit in the week proved no better, even after airing a bit.

I recently picked up three more ’11 Orchid Vibe.  It’s a good price and I’ve enjoyed the vanilla, along with a fermentation that’s a bit lighter than the others, though by no means light.  I stored it in the ripe big box.  The taste is vastly different from the past with much more wood resin.  It seemed quite similar to the Langhe Ripe Tuo, though they’re stored in different places.  Overall quality and character are solid, but the personality differs greatly from any previous session in tasting for a number of years now.  Again, must be the rainy-season effects.

By this time, the Puerh Junky had a fancy to test a LCGC ripe acquired in Nov ’23.  A more exhaustive write-up on LCGC ripes will be in order some time this year ’24.  The year ’23 had Puerh Junky more curious about their ripes.  It proved a good change of pace, as it brought the LME ripe house style into greater relief.  The greatest difference?  Sweetness.  The LCGC possesses a light molasses and Wheat Chex quality.  The sweetness adds a layer of thickness, though it’s not sticky sweet.  Since Old Geezers which sold out to a local fiend, I haven’t found such a production.

Finally, there was the ’06 Nannuo, LME. It’s in the ripe sampler set #4. This was sampled straight from storage and twice thence in the same week.  Each time, totally blind, PJ’s wife made remarks whereas none of the others elicited a peep.  The Nannuo, of which, I’ve picked up three more in a most recent order (yet to be received), possesses a layer of Vienna Fingers vanilla cookie.  There’s a top layer of this with the LME house bitter finish.  Still is not remarkably sweet.

All were brewed in my ripe pot 10-12g about 3m to start at same or upward with about four infusions.  No vegetal at all.  Prices for these between in the $60s-110.  Samples avail in Sampler U or on respective page.

Zhongcha

Zhongcha is ChinaTea.  I’m trying to get use to using that name more frequently.  They’re a full-range outfit but most of that which Puerh Junky offers is in the “peoples” and midrange priced offerings.  There have been a few individuals who’ve examined the leaves and made critical remarks, then showing me Chenshenghao’s yedi.  I’ve not endevoured to portray my ZC’s on par with CSH’s, but when I look at such monochromatic leaves, I immediately suspect blow drying.  No bueno.  In any event, Zhongcha has presented itself as a volume seller of casual drinkers that “the people” can afford.  Until ’14 they adhered to strict processing methods that didn’t pander to quick-sweet tastes.  Furthermore, they’re iconic and worth visiting for a sense of classic puerh history.   Since ’07 the Zhongcha brand has been synonymous with Kunming TF, though there’s an out layer or two.  Initial forays into Zhongcha were with the ’07 offerings, with a few offered as late as ’16.  In ’23, I ventured into a few ’06 and ’08 with generally positive findings but much different from the ’07s that had served as a centerpiece of acquisition from between ’14-’20.  Astringency is much greater in the ’06 and ’08s.

During the leap week I visited two relatively recent productions, the ’12 Mangosteen and the ’13 Bulang Shengtai.  I had to sit the Mangosteen out for two weeks after first test.  There’s a very high-pitched camphor note that may only be detected by mouth cooling for newbies.  There a middle note of aged fruit, plum possibly, with a zing of erstwhile mangosteen, but a wicked astringency that is altogether not in comportment with the house style as I know it.  I’m still not offering, though I’ve had on hand since ’14, only offering to those confident about their storage.  Having tracked essentially since inception, two more years seems the minimum.  It has maximo classical processing and I’m optimistic given it innate character.  First batch, late March/early April.  It’s bona fide and taking it time.  At least three on hand.

The ’13 Bulang Shengtai has been more fudged in processing if the Mangosteen serves as any comparison  The sugars have already come in, an overall fruity character, having an element of bitterness.  Zen front, fruit second, not unfriendly.  Easy. Everyday drinker.  A good candidate for one unfamiliar with 10yr plus productions that have been only moderately fired.  The wrapper is iconic, but if I’m resorting to wrapper I cannot be all that taken.  It’s very possible that it’s just early.  The 10yr spot is just for starters, nothing negative, seasonal factors included.  Fine.  Much better than two years ago.  Again, the sugars are present but Zen needs some differentiation from bland.  A good conservative starter for testing your brewing method.  I’m expecting more with the the weather changes, say late Aug.  Hit me up.  I won’t raise price in next two years.  I plan to post on a Zhongcha page at the latest by May ’24.

Xinghai

Xinghai grabbing continued afoot in ’23.  Now is a time for proper testing the first stage.  We’ll visit the ’07 Oasis Odyssey, ’07 Paolo Santo, and the ”06 Treasured.  I also tried the ’06 Bulang GS, which is prolly issued under ’07, but I’m willing to give it some time.  Let’s start with the Oasis Odyssey.

Oasis Odyssey seems to have been acquired in May ’23, offered in Nov of the same year.   Over time, it has traversed from oily purple to the typical astringent XH personality with good salivation effect as opposed to drying.  Mostly in the Zen Class.  Compression is massive.  The purple has diminished in expression.  Balanced sweetness.  We’ll have to observe how it evolves in relation to the changes of the seasons.  I’m looking for more oil and purple as last year.

The ’07 Paolo Santo tuo has me rather excited.  It’s a second batch production that has lemon and wood attributes.  I can easily see how the first round would be much more expensive.  No smoke, high limonene wood expression, not too sweet. smattering of bitter.  It’s not available presently, as I only acquired in Nov ’23 but around May ’24 will be.  Bright wood bitter, lemonime, complex, nice.  It’s very promising.  Not sweet but quintessentially Xinghai.  Qi is overall warming and settling.

Finally, there is the Treasured, acquired in Jun ’23.  It has yet to be listed, but one of the projects for the Xinghai Raw page two.  Treasured is the second batch.  It’s in the Tobacco Class, possibly approaching tequila.  Not atomically pressed, with a nice balance of smoked wood, wood resin, sweetness, and astringency.  Probably the most notable element regards storage.  Most productions require the proper treatment that these LA environs provide.  Even then, it takes several months to bring them into a form that make them presentable.  It’s needed every bit of the nine months to come to form.  It’ll appear on the XH second page for certain.

Wrap up

March ’24 Puerh Musings have covered a range of raws and ripes.  The ripes were confined to Puerh Junky’s LME offerings, while raws involved Zhongcha and Xinghai productions.  LME ripes stand out for their bitter finish.  ZC’s ’12 Mangosteen is showing promise, but the astringency is a bit of a hair raiser presently, so it’ll sit at least till after the summer.  The ’13 Bulang Shengtai will be posted soon on a page with a few other others.  The Xinghai visits covered two productions that will also be listed soon.  If all goes well, at the latest mid-May.  Each has a distinctive profile and all being second batches are very reasonably priced:  Oasis Odyssey is Zen with balanced sweetness; Paolo Santo is as the name suggests with remarkable qi; Treasured offers wood complexity of Tobacco Class.  Paolo Santo is also Tobacco Class, but possesses a vastly different quality from Treasured, more closely resembling their Green Peacock.

Puerh: Winter Effects Natural Storage

Winter Effects Natural Storage finds Puerh Junky in a meditative mood.  Here we see him discussing the oft-raised issue of puerh storage.  Specifically, he wants to approach the issue of climate control based upon his findings using primarily natural storage in Los Angeles.  Puerh Junky is agnostic regarding the matter of climate control.  Individuals are welcome to like whatever.  Hard conclusions about the best storage are dicey, for reasons not the least being storage climate and the contingencies of each production.  Here PJ wants to share his own findings at the height of the winter months ’24.  We find him in his silk and velvet smoking robe, resplendent colours of gold, black, and green. . .

Puerh Storage Direction:

When we come to the topic of puerh storage we must consider directionality.  Puerh is dynamic, undergoing a constant state of either expansion (outward) or contraction (inward).  Outward movement means that it is taking in more moisture.  Warmer seasons are the time of expansion.  Conversely, inward movement is when material contracts and thus releasing moisture.  Obviously, the picture is more complicated if one lives in the desert, where summer temperatures may give rise to a measure of expansion but not so much or even contraction if there is little humidity to move in.  Similarly, if winter spells a rainy season then contraction may be greatly tempered despite lower temperatures.

The relative state of each production determines whether it needs to expand or contract.  Dealing with dry-stored productions, it’s fair to conclude that expansion is preferable, but there will come a time when the latter is true.  In a recent conversation with a fellow enthusiastista, we were both rather dreading the customary hibernation that accompanies the cooler temperatures.  However, in the case of some productions, such trepidations proved unwarranted. Let’s take a closer look by examining two LME productions.

Puerh Winter Awakening

For a puerh production to undergo winter awakening, the production must exhibit flat attributes in the warmer months.  Assuming that we’re not talking about dry flatness, then the only other possibility is wet flatness.  Either dryness or wetness can give rise to flatness.  Many GD, HK, and wetter stored productions can exhibit flatness.  It can also be the result of insufficient air exposure or all the above.

Such has been the case of a certain LME production that I’ve had on hand for around three winters now and which I first introduced on Discord of Nov ’23.  Its leaves are uncharacteristically black, suggesting that it underwent a period of considerably heavy storage, though no humidity can be detected.  This heavy storage seems to have been followed up by storage where very little air got to it.  These are conjectures.  At the right spot, it exhibits a bright, high-note and refreshing nature.  By April ’23, storage strategy went whole hog humid with most unsatisfactory results, buy by the uncharacteristically early fall and fall-type weather of climes points east, the cake started to blossom with less fussing on this end.  Presumably this case has benefitted from both expansion and contraction, though it is decidedly performing best in its contraction phase presently.

Hideout, on the other hand, has been written about on the Junky’s Log a few times.  By summer ’23 it had flattened, and it seemed much, to this Junky’s horror, that it had piqued and died.  Subsequently, this wasn’t the case and might be attributable to two factors: one being in a transition phase and the other to requiring the contraction of winter.  Hideout presently doesn’t have the spicy traits as before, having now evolved into a grapefruit stage.  Most distinguishable from summer horrors is that the astringency is back.

Wrap Up

A recurrent theme of discussions on storage in the Puerh Junky Logs (PJL) has been that we’re dealing with a moving target.  There are numerous reports that essentially endeavor to time freeze the natural process of aging.  Perhaps this is possible under certain conditions, not the least being time in which a production is consumed.  Most all Puerh Junky comments regard older productions, i.e., ’14 and prior.

Key to assessing the performance of a production is its specifics relative direction, i.e., expansion and contraction.  Here two LME productions were placed under the spotlight to illustrate storage complexities for which winter conditions served as the elixir to remedy flatness.  Warmer seasons are the time of expansion and cooler contraction.  How a production performs depends upon its particular contingencies, which is why it is rash to make make any dogmatic presumptions about storage in general and even season specifically.

Many puerh enthusiasts are careful to control conditions of storage.  The Puerh Junky cannot speak to such methods, though there’s possible cause for philosophical musings based on his environmental specifics where temps range from the 40s-90s.  It is presumed that puerh is a live product given its production methods and transforming nature.  Within the ambit of puerh, shengtai is considered superior to plantation, and wild superior to shengtai.  This is because the wild plant gets exposed to stressors that make the plant work harder to compete within its environment.  With competition chemical responses occur to boost survivability.  It’s hard to imagine that such a phenomenon could be occurring with an entity that is already picked, but it seems possible that a puerh production constitutes its own micro-environment where an analogous process unfolds.  Subjecting one’s treasures to the same old conditions could end up boring the the micro-climate, whereas the stressors of seasonal variability (under LA condition mind you) could vitalize the micro-climate.  Though this is conjecture, it is not without empirical basis.

 

 

Did Puerh Junky Mention II

Did Puerh Junky Mention II continues its look into the past.  Last time we visited some of the stellar productions.  What distinguished them is the excellent storage.  The subsequent discussion continues by bringing to the readers attention productions that worthy of note.  Let’s start out with the cream note, shall we?

The ’04 Uncle Creme Florale and the ’07 Mengsong are both solid cream-drinking experiences.  Sweet and dynamic with pleasant camphor notes.  These two are great everyday drinkers or newbies who’d like a completely different quality of puerh experience that is free from the heavy muted notes of more humid-stored productions, while still enjoying the benefits of serious age.

Ripes have heretofore gone rather neglected.  The ’11 Peacock Gold, Fuhai is in a good place.  Excellent everyday drinker for those enjoying a balance between viscosity, sweetness, bitter and camphor.  Storage is succulent and composition fully expressed under current conditions and age.

Discerning ripe drinkers have almost universally glowed over ’12 Operation Macau.  Most commissioned productions are far from ordinary and Operation Macau is no exception.  If you’re interested in trying a next-level ripe that favours the palate of discerning Macanese standards, rich, sweet, humid, then this sets a standard against which all others can be judged.  The geosmin note excels.  This is one that people load on.

Those ripe-inclined interested in a bit of history should take note of the ferocious ’02 Purple Mark, 6FTM.  This is the only 6FTM ripe production offered.  It took over two years to resuscitate a production held in deep storage and fairly recently released.  Dark chocolate that seeps through the pores.  Perfect after dinner treat.  Can be brewed heavy handed but forget about thermosing!

The cries of the humid crowd have not gone unheeded.  There’s an entire “Humid Old” category set up for it.  Noticeably absent from the list is the Revolutionary Suspect.  Rested here in LA, CA since ’15, the production is alive with the notes of pine.  Though I recommend the full set among the Humid Old , particular attention should be directed toward the Simao Orange, which hasn’t been listed yet but for which there are a few available.  Acquired in Jan of ’23, it took only a few months for this production to blossom and a handful of others were acquired this (Nov ’23) and are still waiting their turn.  Explosive camphor along a backdrop of heavy humidity.  Compression is stellar and Guangdong storage albeit true to form didn’t rot the underlying material.  Those who like the fast-forward qualities of heavy storage should find this a true pleasure.

Amidst the humid and smoky into just smoky two bear mentioning.  First is ’07 Poison, 6FTM which is humid and smoky, and the ’06 Bulang Wild Big Tree, Fuhai.  Given the colder temps, these two will it the winter spot.  Camphor is prominent in both but through very different characters.  Poison would be characterized as “menthol”, while Bulang Wild would be cast as having a more medicinal quality.  Poison is more bitter, woody and in-your-face with complexity, while the Bulang Wild surprisingly is less bitter and low toned, green.  The latter was characterized by one drinker as being like scotch, which I wouldn’t know.  Sweetness with both is high.

 

 

Puerh Junky Visits Dali Tuo

Puerh Junky Visits Dali Tuo is a deceptively titled journal entry because we find Puerh Junky festively clad sniffing at something in a most indecorous manner.  Aye, he’s at it again, this time confusing Bob Cratchit for Ichabod Crane.  The camera zooms in and there’s something about the dude’s eyes that are certifiably “not right.”  It’s the amulet, yeah the spellbinder he’s pawing and sniffing at that’s got him all in a lather.  No doubt some of it has to do with the incantations scribbled upon the wrapper of the thing, the thing he holds.  The thing they call “a tuo.”

Dun-dun-dun.

There’s the hint of smoke and fresh-pressed cotton clothing in the tuo.  Yes.  It gives off a distinct impression of tobacco, something they no doubt smoked upon the Pequod.  It’s got a warm air about it, dressed impeccably in a fine high-cotton wrapper despite being 15yrs old, in the Puerh Junky‘s clutches for three years, stowed away without the light of day in the PJL, what everyone knows to be the Puerh Junky Lair.

“Seems to have blackened up a bit, it does,” he mutters to himself.

Lid removed, big waft of band-aids in the lid, while berries bubble from the cup.  That’s the five min warm cup warm up.  Wood.  No smoke or sugar jump out.  Still warm, complex, a bit cranky, scruffy.  It all comes together in the aroma of the rinse, perhaps berry predominates but now there’s smoke again.  Or wood.

The taste of the rinse is obscenely delicious.  Super sweet, kerosene and berry.  Smooth.  Slick in fact.  It was a headless move to drink the rinse, but such are the perils of conjuring the spirit of Ichabod Crane.  Besides, it’s a long 15m from the opening to the official first infusion.  The aftertaste is super slick.  Three drinking vessels tried: cracked ice Longquan celedon, porcelain glazed zisha (inner glaze), and glass.  The celedon cup gives an alarmingly sanguine finish.  All the while the wood, kerosene, sweet fester in the aftertaste.  From glass there’s a wicker front, a bit more astringency, which is a bit of a surprise.  The porcelain, wood and spice.

It’s aged extremely well.  The band-aid smell from the first infusion is now oppressive in the cup.  Aroma in pitcher is lighter, more nuanced.  Taste of berries shifts to black pepper in the throat, then to kerosene and band-aids.  Band-aids and berry in the aftertaste, then strawberries.  There’s some elements of the vaunted Forever Love in there, smokier presumably is the Dali Tuo.  There’s a kind of echo of smoke.  The note will bend kerosene or smoke depending on perspective.  Storage still clearly fantastic.

The second infusion has the smoothness and viscosity standout.  It’s more wood and petrol in the taste.  Not as sweet.  Tasting more like it’s done being all fruoux, fruoux.  An image of these dogs sitting about a card table smoking cigars comes to mind.  The Puerh Junky tries to distract himself with nicer thoughts like of Ahab and the Pequod.  There’s a lemon note endeavoring to make itself known, and some vegetal bitterness has definitely made itself known, maybe something like dandelion.  Room temp the sweetness and berry prevail in the porcelain cup.

The Dali Tuo gets more and more serious with each passing year.  It’s in a darker more petrolly place presently.  Maybe a year or two before becoming even more strait berry hard to say.  Instagram fotos.

 

Puerh Junky Visits an ’05 and ’04

Puerh Junky Visits an ’05 and ’04 begins with LCGC’s 125g Jingmai “003” and ends with 6FTM’s Tuo.  It’s the 2023 All-Star Game today, mid-Jul in a summer that has not been particularly warm.  Both have been stored in just about the same conditions for the better part of five years here in Los Angeles.  Original storage conditions were moderate to conservative.

The 003 came directly from storage with no preparation.  The title of the mini-cake has the character rui  (蕊), which is comprised of one major component xin (心), which is “heart.”  What’s all this about?  Well the ole Junky has no recollection of ever seeing this character with any other production.  A few years back, 003 had an appearance resembling yinzhen/silver needle, but smaller leaves and much sassier than a silver needle.  Ostensibly, this is evidence of rui material.  In contrast to gongting, quite rare for raw, the leaves are whole and as mentioned resembling yinzhen.

For an 18yo production the aroma of the 003 is nothing short of startling.  It is super aromatic, floral, bright but for some reason it doesn’t possess an oppressive perfume, none of that cheap church lady perfume vibe.  It’s bright and fresh.  Frankly, it seems like it is brighter and fresher than it in previous years.  Wife thought it was a new tea.  Adding to mystery is a broth that has virtually no colour.  Despite this lack of colour, the transformation bears no signs of being stunted.  The storage is flawless.  The fragrance is not only outstanding reflective of the tiny spring leaves, but the astringency has melded to create a rich texture.  This makes it major-league enjoyable, now imparting the smoothness expected from well-aged productions.  Of course, the astringency picks up a bit in later infusions, but it’s always along a sweet backbone that gives active saliva provocation as opposed to dry mouth.

The 6FTM Tuo presents a more complicated tale.  Sampled a month ago to a drab performance, it blossomed to an expression quite different from its product description after sitting out.  Sweet berries and apple take center stage now, along a subtle petrol and graphite backdrop.  Que sophisticado.  hehehe.  The play between the fruit and oil in the huigan pleases, with the fruit acid tweaking the cheeks.  It’s very cheeky, with the sensation lasting a good slobbery spell.

This tuocha is edgier than the 003, probably thicker too.  The qi is characteristic of 6FTM offerings.  The qi of the 003 is very much in the aroma, along with strong chest opening attributes.  Conversely, the 6FTM Tuo comes with a heaviness that pushes down at the back of the neck before imparting a bit of wooziness.  This is the first time that the full character expected of a 6FTM production has come through.  The crux of this treasure has been and always will be storage.  Periodically, old productions are released from deep storage that require a number of years to meet a high standard.  I know of three 6FTM productions between ’02-’04 that fall into this category and this tuo is one of them.

Puerh Junky Visits an ’05 and ’04 offers contrasting styles of puerh from two highly regarded factories, LCGC and 6FTM.  The LCGC is deceptively young for its age, but the age is evident in its texture and sweetness, something noticeable when drinking it through the years and understanding something about aging under mostly moderate conditions.  Similarly the 6FTM is dry stored but it has a broth hue that one could more or less expect under dryish conditions.  Neither production is by any stretch dry tasting.  However, the 6FTM required sitting out a month before it performed anywhere close to standard.  If it isn’t sweet, with an excessively peaty and boring expression it’s because it needs to sit out to wake up.  For a Jingmai, the 003 has some qualities reminiscent of a white tea or silver needle.  This is evident in aspects of its outstanding aroma.  The 6FTM Tuo is a fantastic entry-level (if price be any indication) offering from the highly regarded early days of operation.

 

Ripe Puerh Report Spring 2023

The Ripe Puerh Report Spring 2023 covers ripes in the Puerh Junky Collection.  Just offering some updated notes on ripes listed and unlisted as they evolve.

Let’s start with the ’04 Golden Sail, which is no longer dry and has taken on quite a bit of sweetness and humidity.  The changes after two year’s storage are rewarding, but there are but two of these left.  These tuo were picked up because they represented an interesting Guangdong angle on the marketing of Zhongcha productions.  Golden Sail in particular seems to have circulation in HK and is marketed as an export item similar to their Lucky brand.  This tuo is for the dedicated Zhongcha follower.

The YPH ’10 Sweet Richness lives up to its name.  That said, there is the matter of greater than normal bitterness.  For some, this is a good thing.  It’s quite noticeable.  No tartness.  Yangpinhao is a venture that strikes me as providing an excellent product but struggling for identity.  This situation is in no way remedied by changes of ownership. They do both ripe and raw, but more known for their raws some of which get faked.  Ripes seem to be given to a heavy fermentation style that nevertheless benefits from generous aging.  The blend of tannins with sweetness strike a good balance at this time. . . if you’re in for bitter.  About three fabulous heavy infusions of a dark, dark chocolate like brownies with a bit of baby powder perfume and slate.

Haixintang is the factory providing Grenouille.  This is a factory I’ve known from the early days and their star seems to be rising.  In ’22 the decision to delve a bit deeper had the ole Puerh Junky acquiring a few of their offerings, among them their ’18 Yiwu Ripe.  It captures the essence of Yiwu, smooth, creamy, sweet, banana.  Total extravagance. Nice price stored in nice conditions for a young, ready now offering.  It’s good.  If your conditions will allow for the fermentation zing, then it’ll be better.  Not expensive.  Send an email or hit me on Insta if interested.

The ’06 Langhe Ripe Tuo and I go back a long ways.  The first batch was Guangdong heavily stored and this is also from Guangdong but likely acquired from Kunming.  Right now, this tuo is on the cusp of something unimagined.  Having the fortune to compare the two storage differences provides a fascinating vantagepoint.  Right now, it’s verging toward the ’05 Yiwu Laoshu raw from 6FTM, petrol .  It’s baffling to say the least.  Langhe ripes are stellar but storage and timing is crucial.  Naught-era Langhe provides insight into the a stage of production that strongly oriented to old raw.  Storage factors tremendously.

The ’12 Arbor King, LME is extremely balanced.: sweet fruit, bitterness, moon pie.  I’d call it plush.

Each of these productions offers distinctive ripe puerh profiles.  The most surprising is the Golden Sail because its transformation has been most dramatic.  Second is the Langhe Ripe Tuo.  Its qi is serious and this petrol profile represents something I don’t think I’ve previously had a ripe.

cheers!