Star of the Week: 2014 Wuliang Mt, Shujian
Whenever I think of Wuliang Mt. productions, I’m apt to think of the strong productions from Xia Guan and Tulin. The 2014 Wuliang Mt dragon pearl does not fit the mold. It tastes like sugarcane with a backside kick of camphor. Often spring material is mas fuerte. Perfume, bitterness, and astringency commingle into forming some combination of that which appeals or repulses. This production is nothing of the sort.
The 2014 Wuliang dragon pearl possesses negligible bitterness and astringency. The broth is thick and light in color and taste. Whereas most offerings tend to build to a crescendo, curiously this dragon pearl maintains a steadiness throughout its many infusions, more than 12. Many puerh offerings have “a bottom” of sorts, where the bitterness and astringency prevail over sweetness and fragrance as one progresses from one infusion to the next. With the 2014 Wuliang Mt dragon pearl, this doesn’t happen. Furthermore, despite its gentility, its qi is remarkably present and expansive. The camphor finish is most pleasing in the warm summer months.
The Shujian dragon pearl is rather tightly wrapped. I soaked it in hot water for about two to three minutes in a 120ml gaiwan, so that it could open up. In defiance to first-wash protocol, I drank that. The second infusion received 30s. Thereafter, perhaps 40m having expired, I could disassemble the pearl about 85%. The following infusions were rinses, lasting fewer than 5s.
Shujian Tea Company specializes in high quality puerh. Their dragon pearl selections are on the pricier side, but this Wuliang Mt is among the least expensive of their offerings. Dragon pearls are hand-rolled from select leaves. The individuals charged with this task or in possession of this talent, not that one precludes the other, actually expect pay in exchange for their talents. Go figure. And labor costs are rising in China to boot. Shujian (est 2012) has made a bit of a name for themselves peddling dragon pearls, which consistently sell out given their exceptional quality and very small quantities. If you’re looking for sugarcane without all the flowery fragrance, then I can hardly think of a more pleasing offering.
