Puerh Vessel Variants: Imperial Roots
Lately, I’ve been on a gaiwan kick, essentially testing my puerh vessel hypothesis. It goes something like this: raw puerhs younger than ten years old are generally better in a gaiwan and those older are generally better in clay. The hypothesis has generally held true for puerhs younger than ten, but I needed to test those older. Hence, Puerh Vessel Variant: Imperial Roots.
Imperial Roots has been newly christened. Formerly called “Gift Box,” such a drab name did this ’08 XG production more than a bit of a disservice. I started with the gaiwan: disappointingly flat. I’ve been drinking this puerh since ’16. It started out very pepperminty and now has advanced to the vaunted . . . well, it the gaiwan actually there no “vaunt” of any sort. This was quite surprising because I’d never had a bad session with it. This was why I knew it was the brewing vessel and not the puerh production itself.
Brewing Imperial Roots in my bell pepper blue clay pot rendered the perfect puerh experience. Those just starting out might feel that the attention given to teaware is kind of a put on, but it isn’t. There’s a mysterious alchemy that occurs between leaf and clay. For some reason, this commingling detracts from young puerh but for old it has the opposite effect.
Bell Pepper Pot with the ’01 GM Puerh
One thing, clay adds volume. Think of hair mousse. With young productions, volume isn’t an issue because as with anything young you know it lacks experience. You’re generally looking for vivaciousness and and purity. When something you know to be older lacks depth, the experience quickly falls flat because you’re looking for the complexity. The gaiwan will generally do a poor job of unveiling this complexity.
A treasure like Imperial Roots needs brewing in clay. It’s not optional. It doesn’t have to be the fanciest clay by a long shot, but it is essential. All of the attributes that make it a pleasure only come out in clay. We’re talking about the sweetness, thickness, mineral notes, the camphor, and yes the vaunted vanilla and root beer. I cringe at the prospects of someone brewing it in a gaiwan– positive sacrilege!
Just some additional observations about Imperial Roots puerh here in April 2020. All of the peppermint candy of previous years is gone. All of the notes are a good octave lower than what they used to be. This production is trending in an unmistakably desirous direction.
