The CMS brand goes back to the 19th-c in Yibang, but its most recent incarnation reaches back to the 90s in Menghai. It’s a well-regarded boutique outfit with a distinctive processing style bearing the clear marks of an Yiwu heritage. In the modern era they made their mark beating out the usual cast of characters in a Taiwanese competition in ’06. Below is a listing of a few of their offerings in The Collection.
’07 Maitreya
Maitreya possesses moderate compression, Guangdong dry storage. It is decidedly in the Zen Class, with a berry accent. Trademark Yiwu character despite the claim of being from Menghai. Moderate sweetness, thread of bitter, serious astringency. Light berry aroma that doesn’t cling to the cup. Qi builds steady and depending upon sensitivity might be head-rush-y. Clarity 3. Medium thickness, no humid taste. Could be a shade sweeter, which may develop, but sure to thrill the astringency enthusiast looking for budget everyday drink. First batch, time stamped. Stored in LA since before Jan ’23. 357g.
16¢
’08 9-Volt
9-Volt exhibits an electric aftertaste mouthfeel, thus earning it its name. With broth flavours fluctuating between mango, apricot, and grapefruit, it’s most distinguishing attribute is tartness amidst a medium to light viscosity. Some explosive camphor top notes that may easily elude the drinker. Traditional moderate stone compression. Zen and Fruit Class, fruit predominates but is not sweet, 2-5 scale. Dry Guangdong storage that has progressed to fruity, likely to become more pronounced, along with sweetness. Clarity 4-5. Quite representative CMS, reflecting Yiwu characteristics though asserted to be Menghai material. Bespeaks unique CMS processing, unmistakably traditional Yiwu in origins. Consistent qi that builds slowly but isn’t overwhelming. It’s decidedly a genteel production that appeals a classic Mainland taste preference. Zero humidity. First batch, time stamped. Stored in LA since Sept ’22. 357g.
16¢
’08 Nannuo
Nannuo exuberantly resides in the Floral Class, while imparting lemon accents at the top end of the drinking experience and at the end in the huigan. Excellent sweetness, expressed in the broth and in the huigan. Moderate and pleasing astringency provoking light salivation. Beautiful yellow colour, rather surprising given its Guangdong light storage. No humidity detectable in the broth. Characteristic of CMS’s genteel processing style, but there’s considerably more thickness to the broth compared to 9-Volt and Maitreya. Outstanding huigan and very balanced qi. Stored in LA since Sept ’22. 400g.
69¢
’12 Dragon
The ’12 Dragon, CMS is in the Zen class. All traits and qualities point to Yiwu, bearing classic Yiwu craftsmanship like stone pressing, light taste character without bitterness and light astringency– but it’s actually Menghai. Stored in Los Angeles since May, 2020, original storage was first rate: warm but not drying. Zero dampness with all the underlying attributes to allow for optimal aging.
The Dragon‘s maturation suggests that it might be on the road to root beer but it might just be headed for a thick and rich cream soda. It’s been getting better, creamier with each passing year. After a few creamy Zen rounds, creamy apricot emerges before transitioning to straight apricot. Boisterous fruity candy or strong floral brashness are out of the question for what is an elegant production with sweetness and density intensifying as it ages. 500g.
59¢
| Size | 30g, 500g, 9-Volt, Maytreya, Nannuo CMS, Nannuo CMS Samp |
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