It’s Alive! ’08 Dali Tuo, XG
I recently posted on the ’08 Dali Tuo, XG, expressing disappointment with how it was aging. It’s been warmer and more humid here recently so I thought I’d pay it a visit to see if my views had changed. As the title suggests, they have. My opinion aligns much more with my initial enthusiasm.
Let’s start with the aftertaste. Intimidatingly astringent, the ’08 Dali Tuo simultaneously expresses sweet florality that lingers for better than ten minutes. It permeates the mouth and reaches deep down the throat. There’s a captivating balance between aggressiveness and gentility. It is more floral than I remember, so I chalking this up to the quality of the raw material itself, part of its transformation. I previously noted how harsh it was. It still is quite edgy but the sweetness and richness have returned giving it a balanced quality that makes for a pleasing session.
The liquor starts out thick but thins out quickly. There’s that trademark Xiaguan smoke and tobacco present. After a bit of savory dumplings, the same sweetness in the aftertaste is noticeable in the broth. Upon the sixth infusion, a healthy measure of bitterness emerges. I might be able to push it for an infusion or two but won’t.
A sweet perfume characterizes the aroma. It’s not a cheap perfume or a perfume you find in detergent; rather, it is classy and inviting. In hs, I had a friend who used to wear expensive perfumes that conjured a sense of the Near East. Ones that were not mixed with alcohol, and possessed an alchemical awareness of all the humors. Such is the ’08 Dali Tuo’s aroma.
Finally, the qi of this production is decidedly in the gut. It definitely made me hungry. There may be a slight body feel, but it’s the gut where I feel it most. It doesn’t seem like a gut buster. I would have noticed that by now. However, my intestines are rumbling away.
I’ve been quite fond of the ’08 Dali Tuo and am pleased to find out that it hasn’t flaked out on me. It’s sweetness and floral character expressed, particularly in the aftertaste, provide a satisfying tea session. XG productions are notoriously smoky, yet here we find only a hint of smoke. The ash that I previously noticed is nowhere to be found. The floral notes are easily an octave lower than certain young spring productions. Still, the astringency is formidable, and it tops out rather quickly. Overall, I’m looking forward to how this floral character will develop over the coming warm and humid months.
