PJ Restocked

PJ Restocked takes us to a less-than-frantic scene of the Puerh Junky in The Puerh Cave moving boxes about, handling gigantic zip-loc bags, and administering the rack.   As the title suggests, more of some of the popular productions have made their way back to the blustery climes of Los Angeles and he’s making a note of which items those are.  Let’s take a look, shall we?

  • ’07 Thick Zen, Zhongcha remains to be the price performer par excellence.  Expectations for this treasure were that it would transform into a woodsy root beer, but it has detoured into a heicha-type expression with a strong berry note.Right now it’s too early to tell what to make of the latest shipment.  I’ve done three sessions over five days, two in clay.  The storage appears to be consistent with the previous incarnations, not the least being a ratty-azzed wrapper.  At the same time, we’re dealing with a moving target and I’ve been acquiring since ’16.  This is my third, and likely last purchase.  I’ve bought more of it than any other production with the exception of the Merlot, which is a ripe, and the Operation Macau, also a ripe and both Xinghai productions.Thick Zen is temperamental and thoughts have occurred to just revert it to its given name “Peacock”.  Yeah, I’ve been holdin’ out.  The latest incarnation is consistent with a sassy trajectory, something very much like Hunan and Shaanxi black teas, which are not dank and carry a berry vibe.Thick Zen has wavered from stewed raisin, to prune, to Lipton Brisk, lemony, black tea, honey.  Today, I was gifted with the vaunted notes of the obvious root beer, evanescent suggestions, and cave.  Hopefully this is the trajectory, because otherwise the sassy straw-cranberry is going to bum me out.  That’s strawberry and cranberry for those wondering.
  • ’10 Tiger Tuo, LCGC.  My buyer actually contacted me before shipping about this order because the wrappers are horrifically tattered.  It’s beyond comprehension how a wrapper can be so appallingly cashed.  I don’t think I’ll be searching for more of this, but it’s not for any reason of its own.  I don’t know of a better production, let alone tuo. I’ve known of this production since ’16, watching its development through the various vendors and stages, including the varying years here in LA.  LCGC is effectively a woman-led boutique, but I didn’t learn that till late ’22.  Their iconic identity is captivating and taste doesn’t pander.It’s rare that a production will hit on every level.  In terms of taste, the Tiger Tuo is an unflinching champion with killer texture.  My initial concern was that with such a tattered wrapper that it would be garbage, but my buyer said he could detect no off odor. . . and he hates humid stuff.  hahahahaSo, here’s the scoop.  I cannot sell these tuo at proper price, no matter how good they are, so I’m taking 36% off them and they’re not going to be listed.  Just specify your preference in the comments of your purchase and the difference will be refunded. There’s only six on hand.Think of honeydew melon, pineapple, and pine sap.
  • ’08 Vanilla Palace is another production with a “junkified” name because nefarious forces have led me to deceive you.  There’s no production for which there’s a greater love-hate relationship.  Yeah, you’re wondering why someone would have a “relationship” with a tea.  What’s with this backwoods bumpkin in Los Angeles talking nonsense about a tea relationship?There’s these guys, harassing Puerh Junky, thinking him weak junky because Junky Collection not complete repository of stuff that tears stomach and mouth to shreds.  Vanilla Palace expresses shameless bitterness with smile on face and salute to Junky Flag of self-abuse.  No cause to call Mr Junky abuse-insensitive with Vanilla Palace.

 

Xinghai Releases 2023

Xinghai Releases is a rather prosaic arising from an incident already shared among a few of you.  A snafu arose with the shop pics that only happens if something new is posted.  Instead of the headache of trying to fix that, already attempted with “the fixor“, items will be posted behind the scenes.  A simple word search for item will suffice and missives of this sort will be issued replete with links as well.

The Puerh Junky project is more a study than curation.  This is mentioned because evidently a large catalogue suggests haphazard buying.  That’s never the case, and as mentioned previously, usually only a few items are acquired and those are sat upon till they’re fit for immediate drinking by the buyer. . . unless otherwise notified.  In any event, having items off page so to speak keeps the shop in the moderately overwhelming zone, as opposed to causing outright apoplexy.

As a study, focus is narrowly centered about specific factories and many only within themes encompassing usually Chinesey stuff like the Lunar New Year and peacocks.  Xinghai is a rather convenient factory of attention, as their logo often includes a peacock and the founder has a solid reputation.  That said, in a recent post on top puerh purveyors from various sites, they didn’t appear once, in contrast to say Fuhai, Zhongcha, and Liming, which are also included in the shop.  Below are links to the current Xinghai raw additions for the first part of 2023:

  • ’14 Xinghai LBZ— Have a whole tong arriving this Jan ’23 (OSTENSIBY), but have one or two now.  Recent price check on this shows it’s doubled and I won’t be getting more.

  • ’05 Xinghai Green Mark— This is the second batch.  Prototypical XH offering.
  • ’07 HK Returns 10th— Low risk intro to Xinghai TF, also second batch.  Well stored.

  • ’06 Bulang Old Tree—  Second batch with first more than twice the price.  Extremely interesting production in the vein of Quincy and Tiger.

  • ’05 Bulang Shengtai Tribute— Requires time and attention.
  • ’06 Stylin‘– I forgot to add talcum in the description.
  • ’07 Green Peacock— The perfect juncture of character and economy.

Xinghai’s practice is to not date stamp their second-batch productions, which are priced about half of the first run.  As a whole, their productions are not especially sweet.  This could be because they’ve adhered to a very traditional processing and the sweetness has yet to arrive.  Stylin‘ and Green Peacock are on the sweet side.  HK Returns is in the most advanced stage of maturation, while the others are in varying stages of wood and usually apple.  The real outlier is the LBZ which differs greatly by virtue of its Guangdong storage and in all likelihood quasi-Lincang processing.

Puerh Junky Visits Fohai

Puerh Junky Visits Fohai turns out to be the first missive of 2023, all fresh and shiny with the resolve a new year.  Ole PJ decided on pulling down a couple 6FTM productions for the first week of limbo, that period between the calendrical new year and its lunar consort.

The ’06 Fohai, 6FTM rests broken up a bit in a tin, doing so for the better part of two years.  The lid is not afixed, an accommodation which presumably affords brewing on moment’s notice.  As previously noted FH is next to the opposite of Poison, the latter being smoky, camphor-y, bitter, some sour.  Now, FH is mostly Zen, at least the broth is.  The brightness of this tinned version is completely gone.  The end result is a broth with texture, sweetness, and bitter edges but nearly no taste.  Then. . .

It’s not an uncommon feature of some puerhs to showoff more after having been swallowed.  The huigan on the Fohai expresses a fascinating degree of complexity, part of which sheds light upon the broth.  Perhaps initially there is orchid but deeper in there is the unmistakable “delight” of fresh narrow tan rubber band that’s been chewed prodigiously.  This note lingers. Furthermore, it’s important to note that it’s not the broad white dura rubber band.  It’s the thin tan translucent fresh rubber band.

Next is its intimidating qi, rating 5 on a scale of 5.  Early heart pound and pleasant warming sensations quickly take backseat to a serious and enduring headiness, the kind that makes the eyes itch.  The qi sensation overall seems to be more keenly observed in the morning irrespective of production.  That said, it is exceptionally strong with the Fohai, lasting strong more than an hour on only three 150ml pots.

Fohai Yedi 2023

Finally, Fohai possesses noteworthy expectorant properties.  Sometimes the inner ticket/neipiao of puerhs will include health information referencing fat and digestion, less often phlegm.  I generally take such info with a grain of salt and cannot recall Fohai‘s neipiao;  you’ve read one neipiao, you’ve essentially read them all.  When a raw starts to exhibit behaviors more commonly associated with ripes, well it’s distinctive at the very least.  Fohai sits very nicely in the stomach, while scouring a good deal of muck.

Fohai is a next-level puerh.  It doesn’t cater to taste, rather delivers hugely on huigan and qi.  A sweet Zen broth with slightly bitter edges has usurped its former spry orchid broth.  With age has also come durability.  It continues to perform well at each stage of its evolution.

 

 

Puerh Junky’s Ripeliday Season

Puerh Junky’s Ripeliday Season takes the reader through the mind of Puerh Junky during a time most generically called, “the holday season.”  PJ thinks that the dark seasons are for dark tea, go figure. This 2022, as people busy for the arrival of the Rabbit, finds matters no different.  Below he busily jib-jabs about a few ripes in the Puerh Junky Collection, aka shop.

’06 Old Geezers is the stout of the PJ Collection.  It’s probably more dense than even the Boss Square.  Stouts aren’t clear.  Old Geezers is a stout, with a taste as you dig deeper of Chocolate Malt-o-Meal.  Camphor fades, after first infusion, into a very slight hint that some may associate with cardamom.  Camphor haters who don’t know what camphor is call it “hospital”, “linnament”, “medicinal” or “band-aid”.  Great sweetness and lasting aftertaste that is sweet and sticky.  Yields 4-6 long infusions of 2m.  There’s only three in storage and won’t be replaced, last I remembered it was no longer avail.

With the ’05 Lucky 7572, meistra Du Qiongzhi ostensibly takes her cue from her ancestral factory, Menghai TF/Dayi.  Having no experience with that production from Dayi and having drunk her ’01 Red Mark, fermentation seems light.  This will have appeal for those keen on experimenting or in Du Qiongzhi productions.  Strawberry Qwik that fades fast.  High degree of clarity.  Dryer storage, even though the paper is tea stained. Two on hand.

The ’11Peacock Gold, Fuhai leaves the mouth with a faint taste of band-aids after coating the mouth and throat in velvety milk chcolate.  Respectable sweetness, chestnut color and high clarity.  Silt and baby powder.   Not as thick, sweet, or malty as Old Geezers.

The ’12 Arbor King, LME provides a study in schizophrenia.  The upfront notes surprise with cured fruits before quickly shifting to dark cocoa.  Real bitterness, with a light geosmin and camphor finish.  The huigan is sticky bittersweet, as thick and enduring as the Old Geezers, with clarity about 3-5.  However, it doesn’t have the longevity of Old Geezers.

Winter brings a heavier hand in brewing, with expectations of a heavier brew.  Old Geezers stands out among the group for its ability to holdup and its coating huigan.  The Arbor King hits a bittersweet spot and would be as good were it to last as long.  It’s only an ’11 and closer examination reveals a good deal of “greenage” to the composition, so there’s reason to believe it will develop further.  Fuhai’s Peacock Gold excels in clarity with milk coco, light geosmin and talc.  It’s not as sweet and the huigan fades rather quickly.  Finally, the Lucky 7572 is not so wintry, with strawberry malt in a comparatively light broth.  It’s a prime candidate for summer cold brewing.  Some of these samples can be found on the Ripe Sampler page.

 

 

 

Water Blue Mark Comments

Water Blue Mark Comments pertain to the timeliness of this production given the need for a woolen sweater.  Puerh Junky scored just the last of this production from a particular vendor, so more was able to be procured. . . at a good price.

Water Blue Mark is a Green Mark of a certain character that merited another name.  It has a smoky fruity flavour and depending on certain variables like season, infusion methods, and aging varies in its expression.  It’s one of the few KMTF expressions that I though was Dayi in nature.

It seems others have picked up on this.  The offerings still avail are more than 3X than when originally offered perhaps around ’19.  I won’t be able to speak for the next round arriving; my buyer sent pics of seven separate cakes that should have otherwise been in tong.

I can speak for the four still on hand.  It’s a good tea for the winter.

Another Puerh Blossom

Another Puerh Blossom directs attention to a ’12 Laoman’e production acquired in ’14 and sat upon for a total of eight years.  The Puerh Junky’s wife and I first visited one of the maker’s shops in Kunming back in ’13.  She was floored by a Jingmai offering and for about the next five years PJ made some effort toward acquiring a few of their productions.  Their web presence has diminished considerably over the years, but their shop still flourished in ’17.

In ’14 acquired offerings included Laoman‘e, Xigui, and Huangye, all from ’12  They were all about the same degree of wtf.  I didn’t know what I was tasting.  A ’10 Bingdao snagged in ’16 was equally disappointing.  The only really tasty production was a hideous looking ’07 Wuliang.  At the time I’m certain I didn’t think, well that Wuliang has had considerably more time to develop.  The Wuliang leaf material appeared considerably more rustic than usual.  The tastiness was thus attributed rusticness not age.

’07 Wuliang Yapu TF

Two years ago the ’10 Bingdao blossomed.  It is outstanding.  This year 2022, the 2012s had come into form and the Xigui started to be offered through the Lincang Sampler set.  This mid Nov day occasioned trying the Laoman’e.  The richness and sweetness are noteworthy, particularly in contrast to previous years.  The colour shows that its just at the be first stage of readiness, but it is an extremely satisfying stage.

It’s as interesting to observe the evolution of Puerh Junky’s own understanding of puerh as it is the puerh itself.  These Yapu productions were taken for decidedly second-rate, when it more accurately reflected second-rate understanding.  We’re all learning.

Xinghai Tea Factory Aiyaaa

Xinghai Tea Factory Aiyaaa momentarily gripes about food stamps.  Well, technically date stamps or the lack thereof.  Liming is bad with stamping but Xinghai is the worst.  By ’08 the problem seems to have been remedied, but between ’04-’07 the stamp situation is a disaster.

It’s not uncommon for wrappers to indicate checking either the neipiao or neifei for time stamp.  It may say check neipiao but the stamp will be on the neifei.  Quite often there is no stamp at all. On top of that is a situation where the neifei isn’t really even a part of the cake.

Well, after watching this video where the stamp was clearly absent from a neifei that looked to me as though it should have been stamped, a rant was in order.  You’re witnessing that now.  The Puerh Junky’s wife did as well.  The quandary was clear: why aren’t they stamped?  The easy response is they’re fakes.  But if it’s fake, why not go the whole nine to ensure you’re pulling one over?  Enough has already been made of just how much the fake card is overplayed.  I suspected, perhaps pilfering at the place of employ.  Ambitious employees may opt to try their hand at entrepreneurship.  Possible, but perhaps not likely.  Finally, the heavens opened.

Puerh Dating Quandary Solved

If dateless productions are not fake or the result of sly employees’ pilfering, what would dateless offerings be communicating to buyers?  “IT’S THE BATCH STUPID,” to quote a famous politician.  With some of the big time factories where collecting constitutes a significant part of the market, the first batch is that which is coveted.  Batches of the same production must be differentiated from the first in order to maintain the first’s “rarity” and value, thus the absence of a date stamp and presence of quirky anomalies with the wrapper.

What kind of quirks?  Well, for example, the first batch (pictured above) of what Puerh Junky calls the ’05 Xinghai Green Mark (the real name is just too generic, no wait is Menghai Qizibingcha generic?) bears a faded green seal, whereas the second batch seal is much more vivid. . . and lacks a date stamp.

In another example, the second batch of the Bulang Old Tree has the identical wrapper but is stamped “特制青饼” and lists with a different Xinghai production name on the reverse specs.  One vendor actually had all three versions of the wrapper, one having simplified characters, but only the first batch bearing the time stamp and being twice the price of the other two.

Stamped Second Batch

Xinghai Not So Chaotic

So Xinghai Tea Factory is not so chaotic.  It like Liming and a few others have a method to their date-stamp-free madness.  There’s a measure of coolness to such a practice.  It reflects just how seriously the factory takes itself, the exact opposite of chaos.

 

Puerh Junky Visits Thick Zen 2022

Puerh Junky Visits Thick Zen 2022 continues the saga surrounding one of the plethora of Zhongcha’s ’07 offerings looked at askance by puerh snobs too smart for their own good.  The Puerh Junky has written about the Thick Zen on numerous occasions and now, alas dear reader, we’re at the point where due to forces beyond his control Thick Zen has outlived its name.

Thick Zen continues to evolve.  Zen is more of an afterthought.  There’s all this tartness in it now, picking up in intensity.  As of Nov 2022, there’s orange spice bitter fusing with its Zen past, not terribly sweet but dreadfully interesting.  The shift with the season is magical.  The  once-lauded Yiwu vibe is about one quarter present, as bitterness and sour take the drinker to the Menghai zone, a nice Menghai not trying to intimidate but at the same time comfortable with being itself.  The qi numbs the entire face, makes you feel as though you had a halo beginning at the shoulder.  I read that the a ’21 production by the same name comes from Lincang, entirely possible with here.

Thick Zen is egregiously undervalued given just how dynamic the material is.  The persistent perception that ’07 productions are bad is gradually starting to lift.  The year ’07 witnessed a speculative blowout and specifically an administrative restructuring at Zhongcha that had zero to do with anything related to tea.  Somehow, word on the street became ’07 offerings could not be drunk.  This absurdity turns out to be a fortune for the value hunter.  Thick Zen is value amidst value, highly representative of the KMTF processing style, and over time far more engaging than most any other puerh.

Puerh Junky Visits Making Tea

Puerh Junky Visits Making Tea involves a CMS series by the same name.  I’ve gotten my hands on a few of the series from the year ’16, even posted fotos of on Instagram to make it official.  CMS is technically Yibang CMS and that detail is critical as they possess either material or a processing style that is very Yiwu. . . Yibang being in Yiwu.

The style goes beyond just the stone pressing to encompass the overall softness of taste.  Here, the dry leaves give off a slight smoke and kerosene nose that is mostly candy fruity.  The candy fruity is very similar to the recently listed Jade Mark, a nose of something like Jolly Rancher watermelon.  That kinda fragrance is certainly more Menghai or Lincang.

Making tea Nov 2022

The first real infusion gives off clarity of about 2.5 outta five.  I’ve drunk about 3/4 of this cake and it’s never left any impression.  Based on the intensity and height of the aroma, the ole Junky‘s luck may have changed but while sniffing the cloudy brew the thought to lower the water temp occurs.

Consistent with Yiwus, the taste doesn’t jump out at you.  It’s still too young to have any of the smooth vanilla or thick texture, but the qi comes on powerfully in the head and chest.  Overall, there wasn’t enough to sustain even a modicum of interest.

Several hours later. . .

“It’s good at any temperature,” comments the wife.  The hiatus has helped harness hiding sugars.  There’s a bit of kerosene, ever so slight.  Zero bitterness, even when pushed. Nothing to be said of astringency either.  There’s nothing to sink one’s teeth into.  Zen brutality.

Day two is much of the same.  A thread of freshly mowed grass can be detected in the pitcher, but doesn’t convert into the taste.  Pure rock sugar, a very faint sense of something floral, but all completely fades after taking a piece of buttered bread.  The following taste is of an insipid green tea.  Qi goes to the head in a comprehensive manner, not jagged but with full self-assurance.

Reading through the ’09 comments on an ’08 CMS production that I drank this ’22, one commenter said the tea was “moderately floral and lacking in complexity.”  Thirteen years later, the floral note sounds with great perfection, with nice sweetness and thickness.  The difference is age.  The Puerh Junky assumes Making Tea is in a similar boat.  Realistically its about six years away from hitting a decent stride, optimistically three.

 

 

A Night Visit with BZ Peacock

A Night Visit with BZ Peacock finds the Puerh Junky searching for an appropriate night cap, something with more bite and less dirt than the ’01 Yiwu Chashan.  He grabs the caddie about 1/8th full of Buddha Impressions, when he finds the gaiwan of BZ Peacock opened the previous day staring at him.

There’s no doubt that the BZ Peacock is now the best its ever been, this Oct 2022.  The two days of sitting have produced excellent results.  It’s very much on par with Wang Xia’s ’01 Green Mark A, which I’ve mentioned several times by different names.  It tastes like really good leather that’s been cured with the best of tallow and fragrances, like oud, sandalwood, and myrrh.  It’s bitter on the finish with an interesting yet characteristic apple sweetness and sourness of many fancier Xinghai productions.  This time it lurks amidst a a strong layer of smoked hickory.

The Buddha Impressions isn’t this woody, but like Grenouille and Zou Binlang’s Cinnamon, they all are of a similar profile.  Buddha Impression is more peppery and ferment-y, with amaretto notes.  Fuhai’s ’07 7536 can be added to the mix, but its notes are more commonly found in any kitchen cupboard, namely bay leaf and clove.  The ’07 iteration is reported to be unique, to which I can attest to only from an ’04 in the stash, which is decidedly heavier stored and perhaps more in the vein of the 7542.

Certainly, one of the more curious aspects of all these productions is absence of a punctuated camphor note.  Perhaps this will emerge, is only a product of storage, or its absences is particular to these productions.  The ’05 Silver Pekoe, Tulin seems to demonstrate that storage plays a significant role in the camphor note.  Its first iteration received heavy storage, expressing strong sour notes on the back end during the first four years of possession.  The second iteration had that baby powder note but after a year of good heat and humidity transitioned into camphor.  In the first, the camphor deepened, while the sour waned winding up with a dense camphor explosiveness.  The second, has settled into the Grenouille and Buddha Impression neighbourhood.  The second definitely stored under much drier conditions.  In the final assessment, there’s no doubt that explosive camphor is closely correlated with humidity and warmth.

Finally, BZP lasts forever.  It isn’t a quaffer, so a gaiwan is likely to last up to 5 sessions of 450ml each. I’ll relate something from my days in Beijing to this end.  There was a retired Frenchman with whom I drank cognac on a couple occasions.  We only had one teacup’s worth each time, sipping.  Contrast this from the HK context, where they were drinking XO in tumblers as a “classy” sign of extravagance.  Yeah, you can quaff BZP if you like, but it doesn’t feel like that type of tea to the Puerh Junky. . . but what does he really know anyway?

p.s. BZ Peacock sale till Sun.