Wuliang Longevity Ripe

Posted on by Yang-chu
03 Nov

Wuliang Longevity extends our Haixintang discussion from earlier in the week. It’s been residing in LA for about a year-and-a-half this Nov ’24.  It still posseses a strong cherry nose, blending nicely amidst strong bitter chocolate.  Its body is lighter than some of its Menhai counterparts and as the taste fades an irresistable cream flavour builds.  The huigan engages the drinker for a good spell, in part due to the Menghai contrast.

Xiaguan or Tulin constitute reliable references for ripes from the region including Mt. Wuliang.  It’s been a very long time since drinking a Tulin ripe and even longer for an XG, as in never.  The Wuliang’s bitterness, though pronounced, appears evanessent.  A similarly fruity ripe Merlot, by contrast, impresses with a much more intimidating bitterness.  They’re the same age, but the bitterness with Merlot builds, perhaps due to its Menghai origins.  It’s also quite possible that the evanescent character of the WL is attributable to HXT’s crafting particulars.

Cool, WL tastes an awful lot like coffee.  This goes back to its medium texture, not just the roast.  Were I hankering for a roasty brew, Orchid Vibe would be first on my mind.  It’s another Menghai, with a bold character and texture alongside some cream notes.  Warm, WL screams cherry dark, dark chocolate, but mysteriously as it cools coffee roast notes take centerstage.  This doesn’t seem to happen among the Menghai crew.

Words to describe Wuliang Longevity?  Cozy and affable.   Long after swallowing, a dynamic huigan progression pleasantly engages the drinker.  Such coziness makes it nice during chilly weather and before bed.

Milky Machinations

Posted on by Yang-chu
31 Oct

Milky Machinations finds the Puerh Junky engaged in countless Milk Tea variations.  Let’s take a gander at the latest involving Puerh Espresso.

Pu’erh Espresso

Pu’erh Espresso is the sexy name that Puerh Junky bestowed upon a few kilos of puerh tea paste stored since about ’17.  Tea paste is brewed then reduced into a glue, which is then left to dry.  It’s usually sold in blocks or cubes.  There are companies that specialize in making it, with some productions commanding very high prices based upon the clarity.  These dreadfully fancy ones don’t seem to be consumed as tea, but rather as pills for various medical conditions.  As with traditionally shaped ripes, the older the tea paste the better it is considered to be.  It’s hard to say if this is entirely due to the Chinese penchant for valuing “the old.”  The same funkified factor that makes many ripes undrinkable until a few years after production also applies to tea paste.  In other words, that wodui aroma doesn’t get cooked out in the course of its processing.  That smell is simply something that must age out.  Additionally, aging seems to have mellowed some of the tannins, though it doesn’t appear to have become any sweeter, as is the case traditional-style ripes.  Now for the Milk Tea part. . .

Milk Tea

Milk Tea with Pu’erh Espresso seems to be a perfect marriage.  One of the main benefits has to be convenience.  In previous iterations of milk tea, the ripe puerh had to be brewed for about 15 minutes before cashed leaved being extracted and spices being added.  With Pu’erh Espresso, that’s all one step.  This means that the spices cook the same amount of time as the brew, saving at least 15 minutes.

Second, there’s never any bother about extracting everything from the leaves because the extraction is what Pu’erh Espresso is.  Previously about 13.5g of tea brewed up to make about 6cups of brew.  Now two-level grams make just as much if not slightly stronger and one-heaping gram and one level gram serving up a positively intense base upon to which one adds milk, cream, bone broth, and butter.  Blending these ratios works faster without first cooking the tea because everything can be added at once, though milk and cream should be added toward the end to allay curdling.

Along these lines, there’s no wringing out the last bits of concentrated brew from the leaves.  My strainer is staying in the drawyer, as the cardamom is pulverized in the blending.  Add ons?

Add Ons

There’s a big batch of sour plum, hawthorn, and tamarind ferment that I made up in Sept that doesn’t agree with the ole teeth when drunk strait.  The urge to ever doctor the Milk Tea to execute certain health benefiting properties never ends.  Tamarind is well researched for its effects on counteracting fluoride, and though its dose in this brew would in no way be therapeutic, it can certainly be considered mollifying in terms of the fluoride naturally found in camelia sinesis.

Balloon flower root is a very common Korean vegetable high in saponins.  These compounds found in balloon flower root can be helpful for those suffering from various form of phlegm disorders, including sinuses, snoring, cough.  Again, the idea of its use is to not make the potion an actual medicinal beverage, but it can enhance properties of ripe itself, as ripe is first-and-formost consider a digestive that works by enhancing metabolism of what is generally considered phlegm by Chinese medicine standards.

Wrap Up

Milky Machinations offers more insights into the versatility of Milk Tea, while touting the fantastic results of using Pu’erh Espresso instead of actual leaves.  It’s a time saver, simplifies preparation, and makes gauging additions easier.  Pu’erh Espresso packs a righteous punch, so nothing is lost in terms of intensity by substituting it for leafy ripe.  If anything it adds to the intensity.

 

Grenouille, Stylin, Daxueshan

Posted on by Yang-chu
29 Oct

Grenouille, Stylin, Daxueshan provides storage and development notes on three offerings during the autumnal sweet spot of ’24.  Grenouille, re-upped in ’20, comes to the drinker by way of Haixintang.  Though obscure in the English-speaking world, they hold a solid reputation amidst the welter of puerh tea factories.  Stylin‘ flaunts courtesy Xinghai factory, probably the largest holding of any one factory in the Puerh Junky Collection.  Daxueshan holds the distinction of being from MKRS, a Lincang factory outfit that since inception has been particular about not using pesticides.  Let’s start by recapping weather/storage particulars for the past two years.

Weather

Oct ’23, Los Angeles, California witnessed early rains that lasted off-and-on through February ’24.  Sept ’23 may have been fairly warm though it was not its typical hot and this Sept 24 was abnormally cool.  Spring ’24 resembled weather patterns of the US hinterland.  In fact, the last two Marches have been noticeably different from previous years, March usually being one of the hottest months of the year before the gloom settles in.  A steady barometer for measuring spring weather happens to be the jacaranda: when they blossom and how long the blossoms last.  If many blossoms last into July, then you know you’ve had very cool temperatures relatively speaking.  That has been the case the past two years.  Now for the details. . .

Puerh Details

Puerh Details start in late ’22 when efforts at aggressive hydration proved too ambitious by April ’23, as bits of white frost formed in the big ripe box along with a box mostly for tuo and a few cakes singled out for da business.  By April ’24 the following year, most all boxes were either back to conservative hydration or no hydration at all.  It just wasn’t hot enough where bold humidity would yield desired results.  Grenouille was in the aforementioned tuo box of frost where hydration stopped in Aug ’23.  Since then the humidity has been given a chance to settle in sans any hydration.  The effect has imparted serious mushroom flavours without one shred of dankness.

Out of panic, hydration extraction occurred about the same time as above with a separate Xinghai box, which also includes BZZS.  After the joyous events following the Chinese New Year (ahem), a devil-may-care attitude led to letting the tea do what it would on its own.  Stylin‘, a denizen of this box and visted this Oct ’24, unleashed its best performance to date.  Originally being stored under fairly dry conditions, Stylin’s aging over the past few years involves incremental “juicification” while the intrinsic sugars emerge and deepen.  Given the extreme moderate temperatures, the lack of hydration appears to have been a good move.

Daxueshan gets stored along with other Lincang productions like Creme Florale and some Lancang offerings like Jingmai.  This box only affords a very small measure of hydration.  There’s nothing that can be done to change this aside from eliminating what little there is, which seems like a bad idea.  In any event the DXS is getting better and better.  It is now downright bright with an intriguing blend of tangerine and apricot.  Not mealy apricot either.

Take Aways

One take away tying these productions is sweetness, something that the ole Puerh Junky’s been waiting on for a minute.  This is not to say that they previously didn’t have some measure of sweetness, but now the sweetness lasts.  The texture and flavours are all deeper and more intense, with noticeably quelled astringency. The dryness is gone with Grenouille. There’s scorch up front that lasts but an instant before the onslaught of mushroom. Good sweetness, including a mischevious thread of bitter. Peach follows on the heels of the mushroom, and some infusions after sitting a few hours even yielded bold lemon.  Stylin‘ sounds in the medium-low register, light wood, incense, dried durian. Little astringency and bitterness. Savory with building sweetness from one infusion to the next. Round and full mouthfeel.  It’s a truly sophisticated drinking experience.  Both these two are savoury sweet, while Daxueshan has decidedly been moving in the opposite direction.  The typical floral character of DXS gets replaced by stonefruit and a hint of tangerine.

 

Milk Tea II

Posted on by Yang-chu
16 Oct

Milk Tea II follows upon the piece introducing milk tea’s inspiration.  As promised, here’s the recipe.  The creation has been an ever-evolving project.  If you’re not playing with your food, then what are you doing?

Milk Tea– The Early Days

I’m not using milk, but coconut cream from Indonesia. Taking one from the West here, i.e., Mongolia and Tibet. . . some Indian accents clove, cinnamon, cardamom, even a bit o’ the Americas in terms of cacao. Just a pinch or two of these.  At least a tablespoon of ghee and 2 teaspoons of grass-fed butter, 1/2 bonebroth. 13g ripe boiled in about 2litres water, along with 3g 山楂 (hawthorn) 1 piece 乌梅 （mumei).  Started whizzing in blender for 4min.  You have to remove all the chunky items before blending.

The main thought here was to add som citric acid via hawthorn and mumei to offset the effects of the oxalates in the puerh.  Just ballpark the amount of cream.

Milk Tea– Traditionale, Sorta

Phase two witnessed elimination of the hawthorn and mumei in favour of half-and-half.  Coconut cream works fabulously for creamy taste, but it doesn’t have any calcium, which is being used to bind with the oxalate.  Citrate’s mechanism differs from calcium, as the former reduces oxalate concentration while the latter affects a calcium oxalate bond that passes through the system instead of bonding with endogenous (in the body) calcium.

Add coconut cream additionally if it suits personal preference.  The cream factor along with butter is about 1/2 to 1 tea, with the other half being bone broth.  There’s positively no need to be overly rigid in measuring.  Just go by the colour of the brew and adjust accordingly.

Milk Tea– The Latest

The Mongolian milk tea makes use of millet.  I’ve got this flour used to make an African polenta called “fufu,” which is a royal mess to prepare, so much so that it’s not getting used.  This flour can be made from any grain I suppose, but I saw a plantain and a cocoyam type, purchasing both.  “Cocoyam” is called something that sounds like “fish head” in Mandarin and is made in a few dim-sum dished, though much more common in Filipino and Hawaiian cuisine.  I had to look up the alternate name that escaped me, “taro.”  It happens to be the root of the Elephant Ear plant.

So far, only the plantain flour has joined the symphony of milk tea.  I’ve read plantains are particularly high in oxalates.  Evidently processing can affect oxalate content.  Dunno of any differences when made into flour.  Test findings seem to vary widely, so the reliability of any of the data is nil.  In any event, the gist for using the flour was to add a cereal component to the tea like the Mongols.  Two heaping tea spoons added after removal of the puerh and after the spices have had a few minutes to simmer and bone broth has been added.  Seems like giving the flour a little bit of a cook is a good idea to transform the flour-y taste to something else, though I haven’t just adding in the blender.  This addition kicks up the creamy thickness factor to a very high level.

Additionally, Chinese dates were added to the mix at the blending stage AFTER pitting.  Five dates added a nice bit of sweetness without being too sweet.  Chinese dates though sweet have about 1/4 the sweetness of dates from the desert of California or N. Africa.  Also the taste profile is much more like a dried apple than whatever it is that palm dates taste like.

Wrapping Up

Milk tea comes to us by way of our Western friends in Tibet, Xinjiang, and Mongolia.  Each place varies how they make it.  Recently, I saw the tea being made in Kazak- or Uzbekistan with green brick tea.  This is how the Mongols seem to do it as well, though the Tibetans favour using ripe puerh.  There also seems to be some seasonal variation, i.e., green for summer and more oxidized tea in the winter.

The focal point of the milk tea recipies offer above is first the ripe puer and second fat, usually in the form of cream and butter, though pork lard or beef tallow have been used quite often.  Salt is not added in any of these recipes, as that is covered through use of boths that have already been salted, along with salted butter.  The ratio is about 1 part puerh to one half broth and another half cream.  The brew is not spiced heavily, though they add a nice balancing accent to the overall composition, just a pinch of clove, two pinches cinnamon, and three cardamom pods.  Three pinches of cacao into the blender works dandy.

The milk free version with hawthorne and mumei is fine but requires a fair amount of brewing, while the milk version calls for adding after the tea has been brewed.  Flour, I used plantain, adds a sinfully rich texture to brew.  I wouldn’t avail myself of this option too often as it will tend to pique the appetite, while the flour-free creation works well as satisfactory meal in itself, even more so with the milk-free version.  Finally, the sweet version can be used with any type of sweetner, palm dates, Chinese dates, raisins or even prunes.  The concoction works best with what you already have on hand.  There’s no need to go through any great extravagance, with the possible exception of the coconut cream.

Lemon Swimmin’

Posted on by Yang-chu
08 Oct

Lemon Swimmin‘ is a catchy title describing a couple raw productions drunk recently, LME Early Spring, and Tiger Tuo, LCGC.  The two have some differences despite swimmin’ in lemon.  In the following passage, lets’ take a look at the storage parameters, some tea factory highlights, and taste features just for fun.

Storage

The LME Spring came into the cave sometime in ’23, a re-upping from a batch acquired around ’18.  It resides in the bazhong box along with other LME productions.  Weather conditions in ’24 were cooler than previous years.  Hydrating started imparting an undesired heavy aroma, so since around May items have been stored sans any hydration.  It drank very well straight from storage.

The Tiger Tuo sat out for about 15 days, also a re-upped offering this time acquired around early ’21 and originally in late ’15.  Dry-stored, this tuo has been consumed from the “for the ready” fridge.  Transformation has been conservative due to the very moderate temps the last few years.  Drinking directly from the fridge doesn’t do it justice, particularly coming at sweetness’ expense.

Company

As the name indicates, LME specializes in Menghai, Banzhang material.  All of their neipiao (inner ticket) from this era are identical, indicating BZ, Bulang, and Nannuo material.  Differences standout despite neipiao genericness.  LME stands for Laoman’e a mountain/terror not far from the BZ area and is known for being especially bitter.  Just for clarity, LME here refers to the brand, though it is often just a reference to the terroir.  This brand has a very solid reputation in terms of raw and ripe productions.

LCGC designates Lancang Ancient Tea.  They specialize in Jingmai and Jingmai blended productions.  Since about ’18 their reputation for ripes has far surpassed their raws.  Interestingly, they use their best material in crafting tuo.  The factory is a woman-owned private enterprise, with origins going back to the late 60s at the height of the Cultural Revolution (1966-1976).

Taste

LME Spring previously tasted of old chrysanthemum.  For reasons possibly relating to age or storage, lemon swims presently.  Without being piercing, the taste is bright and cheerful, evocative of Lemon Heads but nowhere as sweet.  Fruit is a characteristic stage of many raws, but transitioning from old flowers to lemon is a new discovery.  Chances are that this lot received lighter storage than the previous, possibly never undergoing a chrysanthemum stage.

Tiger presents an interesting study in the evolution of a bright pine and pineapple-y tuo into lemon.  Weather plays such a huge role along with storage in the expression at any given time.  A previous entry notes root beer expression from a few years of very warm weather.  This most recent iteration is characterized by lemon-wood-petrol, with nice sweetness edged by unabashed bitterness.  The personality is darker than the LME Spring, though the broth is lighter.

Wrap-Up

Lemon Swimmin‘ features two raw productions possessing strong lemon traits.  LME Spring is new to the lemon party, while Tiger Tuo has always possessed some citrus-esque attributes.  Both are re-acquisitions from previous fairly conservatively stored conditions in Mainland.  Both are lemon swimmers, but LME Spring’s bright nature evokes childhood lemon, while the Tiger’s wood and petrol combine to spin a more complex yarn.

Milk Tea

Posted on by Yang-chu
15 Sep

For kicks I started drinking milk tea.  This summer, I’ve been pondering the phenomenon of people’s adverse gastric responses to tea. It boils down to the anti-nutrients in plants, a misfortune calling into question the vaunted benefits of polyphenols, catechins, and tannins. Not the least of these anti-nutrients is oxalates. Oxalate receives great attention among those who’ve suffered from kidney stones.  Kidney and gallstones are anecdotally becoming more common given the popularity of certain nondairy and nongluten alternatives that are chock full of oxalates. Here’s some data that makes some preliminary forays into this matter.

Food is quite personal.  People don’t like to have their style cramped.  The matter becomes even touchier when challenging conventional wisdom.  Afterall, knowing what we know because that’s what we’ve been told should be sufficient especially when the majority of experts are in agreement.  I mean if you cannot trust experts, then whom can you trust?  If plants aren’t our friends, then how ever shall we reduce our carbon footprint and save the unquestionably globular oblate spheroid from the unrepentant binarians?

Curiously, I recently had a run in with a friend on this matter of oxalates.  He relayed an uncommon situation in the dental office involving bony growths, a phenomenon perhaps replicating something with his knee since a teenager.  Friend eats very generous amounts of high oxalate food: spinach, almonds, chard etc.  His favs.  We could chalk his predicament up to something genetic.  I don’t see why not, but that seems like only part of the equation.  The stones formed in the kidney are no different from the phenomenon of pseudo-gout (bone formations from oxalates as opposed to uric acid) or some forms of arthritis.  We shouldn’t rush to conclusions, but we can also exercise a modicum of reason based upon dietary habits.

Much of the scientific data surrounding the benefits of plants are based on unproven assumptions. The vast majority of positive plant research findings are on rats. Ethical standards, time, and costs primarily limit studies to rats. Though rats are mammals, their natural diets and metabolism are not entirely analogous to humans. Therefore, it requires a leap of faith to conclude that rat studies translate to humans.  What we really need is more dolphin, monkey, and volunteer prisoner studies preemptively declared safe-and-effective by dint that the very trustworthiness of science depends upon it.

Suppose, for argument’s sake, we grant that findings in rats can be applied to humans. Does that mean that the unstated assumptions surrounding such findings have a leg to stand on? By way of example, founder of the PCR test for which he won the Nobel Prize Kerry Mullis relays in his book Dancing Naked in the Mind Field an incident involving a speaking engagement on behalf of a very prominent pharmaceutical company (a safe-and effective pharmaceutical outfit I might add) for an anti-viral medication they were promoting. Mullis asked said company for the research data proving that a certain virus was the cause of said condition.  No research was forthcoming.  To this day no such research exists, but evidence (or the lack thereof) is meaningless in the face of conventional wisdom, not to be confused with relentless marketing and psychological terror campaigns.  Only the non-democratic types stoop so low.

Good ole conventional wisdom is not permanently etched in stone.  That’s what we call scientific progress.  Many clinicians, surgeons, and researchers are beginning to chip away at the conventional wisdom surrounding cholesterol, for example.  This is quite interesting because it potentially pulls the proverbial rug from under all of the supposed plant benefits.  In short, even if olive oil, green tea, and acai lower cholesterol, it doesn’t mean that low cholesterol is a good thing.  Most working assumptions around the purported benefits of plant molecules are largely based upon epidemiological studies biased by policy directives. Epidemiological studies are interesting but they do not constitute proof; they are not controlled and can only serve as basis for conjecture. For example, if we take data surrounding Japanese tea consumption, we may attribute it to why Japanese live as long as they do or to their significantly higher stomach cancer rates. The outcomes may be due to their eating lots of fish or maybe general affluence.  There is no way of knowing without controls.

With this knowledge about anti-nutrients in tow, perhaps we can gain fresh perspectives on some of the thinking behind the processing of tea in general or why those in HK consider young raw (traditionally processed) puerh poison.  Traditional food preparation methods and combinations no doubt play some part in mollifying the effects of anti-nutrients, though traditional rationales are not likely to express such practices in terms of anti-nutrients. Bean soaking, for instance, demonstrably catabolizes phytates and lectins.  However, soaking has negligible effect upon reducing oxalate.  Aging is known to have a catabolizing effect upon tannins, phytates, catechins and other polyphenols.  Alas, the same cannot be said for oxalates.

Maybe the whole issue is much ado about nothing, but if it were nothing then the phenomenon precipitating this query would be too rare to have sparked interest in the first place.  Still, more research is needed.  Reducing emergent (emergent in the sense that the sensitivity develops after a few years) tea intolerance solely to oxalates may prove lacking in necessary nuance.  With nutrition and human physiology, this is most often the case.  Most of the data surrounding oxalates involves kidney stones. However, the issue is by no means confined just to kidney stones.  Anyway, this oxalate issue in addition to awareness of the Silk Road pastoralists’ fancy for milk tea is what spurred me into making my own.  I’ll share more on my own brew later.

Championship Round: Ripe Puerh

Posted on by Yang-chu
20 Jun

The Championship Round of the Ripe Puerh Challenge commenced on 14th June ’24.  Three contestants performed and that day, followed by the last two on the 15th.  Parameters for the championship round differed from the initial round in that 1) contenders sat out for about five days, 2) only two rounds drunk for each, with the second pushed considerably.  Initial round and championship round differed considerably.  In retrospect, all of the contenders reached the championship round in the first place because they performed best straight from storage.  This is to say that no production performed better than straight from storage.  This serves to reason as they all expressed stellar qualities to get them to the championship round in the first place.  This is not to say, however, that the duration for airing was too long.  For example, airing Merlot for only about 18 hrs dramatically increased its performance, while a cake (Hailanghao’s ’05 Jinseming) with an especially innovative fermentation approach on hand for 14yrs performed best it ever has after sitting out for more than two weeks.

Second, a pushed infusion doesn’t necessarily make for the most enjoyable drinking experience, though it does get to the innate character of the production.  Under ordinary circumstances, diluting or stacking of shorter infusions would have been in order.  Still, apprehending the innate character reveals more about the underlying material of the production itself.  Here, there’s no mistaking Yiwu with Menghai.

55, Zhongcha #1  Champion.

Zhongcha’s ’06 “55” commemorative continues evolving along a path of deepening sophistication.  Curiously, Baidu states that it is part of the 7581 series, which either seems wrong or raises more questions than it answers about what precisely “7581 series” constitutes.   No other 7581 is as populated with gold buds as the “55.”  One would think that “series” signals some established standard of material, fermentation, and other processing variables, but this doesn’t seem to be the case.  A previous entry discusses this.

Highlights: Bitterness, piney camphor, incense, cream, balanced sweetness, mushroom, cocoa deliciousness, big qi, cuts phlegm

Ripe Participants

  • Yiwu Commission, DQZ
    Creamy sweet, bitter finish, smooth, chocolate milk–> the second round push exhibited that Yiwu smoove, zero humid notes.
  • BZ Peacock King, LME
    Bitter!  Crazy clarity, dark chocolate then cream, piques salivation, icy-hot camphor, cotton mouth, light incense, cheeky–> would definitely have diluted second round.
  • Operation Macau, XH commission
    High camphor cream aroma, dry newspaper hint, slate, cream aftertaste, piques salivation; cream forward, camphor finish w/ mineral accent, bittersweet cacao, touch of roast, late aftertaste slight sour–> sweetest expression from first to second infusion by far.
  • Silver Peacock, XH
    Malty cream and roast, glass smooth, pecan, vanilla, bittersweet aftertaste–> even-Steven from first to second.

Ripe participants are probably listed in the order in which they placed, though personal preference increasingly trumps quality as they’re all good. Here’s a link to try for yourself.  Scroll down for “champions” selection. It consists of 16g of each participant.  The link will remain active till about 14th Jul ’24.

Spring Ripe Championship Round

Posted on by Yang-chu
11 Jun

Spring Ripe Championship Round commences in four days, June 14th.  All the contestants have just been removed from storage to air.  How they will perform under airing remains anyone’s guess. . . and guess many a spectator will do.  Odds-makers are frantically taking bets.  The sharks placed wagers with cool confidence the minute odds listed.  Yang Q Public (ahem) invariably waits till the last minute.  Here’s the contestants along with the stable represented.

Stay tuned.  Place yer bets.

 

Spring Ripe Puerh Taste Off V

Posted on by Yang-chu
24 May

The evening prior to Spring Ripe Puerh Taste Off IV major domos (or is that doma) Ruan, Zhang, and Du met up for an evening repast of crawfish hotpot with lots of pea greens and limitless enoki.  The following day featured Mme Zhang’s third or fourth performance, while it would be the first for Mmes Ruan, of 6FTM, and Du.  They chatted some about the old days at Menghai TF but mostly the deliciousness of the enoki, the freshness of the crawfish, and nuance of the Sichuan-style broth.  If Domo Zhang appeared more relaxed than her compatriots, if she found the crawfish just a smidge juicier, then it no doubt could be attributed to her already having Operation Macau advance to championship round earlier in the day.  Day V uncertainties weighted in the minds of Domos Du and Ruan.  Let’s get down to the day’s action.

Spring Ripe Puerh Taste Off IV

  • ’02 Purple Mark, 6FTM
    Light cocoa, Tootsie roll, slight camphor, strong qi, super velvet mouthfeel.
  • ’06 T8371, Zhongcha
    Light oud, balance, hint of red hots, astringency, bitterness, petrichor, big aroma, cocoa, camphor, brut.
  • ’05 Yiwu Commission, Du Qiong-zhi
    Magical aroma in dry pot, bright, buttery, camphor, medium to light body, pine, not so sweet, noticeable qi presence.
  • ’08 Golden Tribute, Xinghai
    Lively dry aroma, bittersweet, cocoa, oreo cookie.

Occupying opposite extremes of dark chocolate bitter punishment are the Purple Mark and Golden Tribute.  Purple Mark is one of the oldest contestants, second only to Drury Lane.  They perform similarly.  Airing considerably improves performance.  Straight from storage, it’s a lot like flat pop, silkiness aside.  Golden Tributes ferocity in no way detracted from it’s performance, contending strongly for the top spot.  It’s currently not listed, only three on hand.

This brings us to the two commissions.  The T8371 holds distinction as being a HK commission.  Judging from the recipe numbers, it’s a slight variant of the classic 7581, key being its light fermentation.  This was T8371‘s heftiest performance, entering a new fermentation stage.  Not to sound like a broken record, but it needed some airing.  The plug-n-playability of productions often depends upon the season.  Each production has it’s own personality.  Every production came straight from storage.  No babying allowed.  It’s more than plausible that results would differ in another season.  The red hots note is new exciting addition to an already excellent performer.

Process of elimination leads to the Yiwu Commission as the winner.  Spring has treated this contestant most generously.  The complexity of flavours with all-enveloping camphor pleased all drinkers.  It held up throughout the day, while the Golden Tribute settled into less distinctive expression.  Through the course of five days of mostly drinking Menghai productions, the buttery Yiwu not formed quite an extravagant contrast.  Major Domo Du will be advancing to the championship round.

 

Spring Ripe Puerh Taste Off IV

Posted on by Yang-chu
23 May

Spring Ripe Puerh Taste Off Day IV has contests in no mood to chat with the media before the event.  Late entries have extended the competition to a fifth day.  The late change has put them in a bit of a mood.  As a reminder, each contestant weighs in at 10.5g, receiving arbitrary infusion times in a 150ml clay pot.  The same pot.  Let’s begin. . .

Ripe Puerh Taste Off Day IV

Day III of the Ripe Puerh Taste Off occasioned mention of airing out productions for a few days for maximum performance.  This is relevant to the performances of both Dury Lane and the Langhe Brick.  Experience has demonstrated that DL benefits from a good 10 days of airing.  In the Taste Off there was a noticeable lack of zing that resulted in the descriptor “dense.”  The same likely applies to the presence of “cardboard,” since it hasn’t been subjected to dry conditions.  It is conceivable that this sample’s location in storage might somewhat factor, though cardboard and “old taste” could be construed as being the same and at 22 yrs of age might be expected.

The prevailing taste of the Langhe Ripe Tuo is highly evocative Sweet Richness, an earlier contestant, though not as intense.  Interestingly, as it sat throughout the day, it performed more competitively among the contenders.  This raises questions about prospects for future interestingness, though the maximo light-fermented production of considerably higher quality like the ’06 East is Red and ’05 Peacock Tribute have already hit their stride in the past 2-3yrs, without storage pushing.  Still, the GD stored version of the Langhe Ripe Tuo that did receive a great deal of humidity is actually quite remarkable so the jury remains out.

This only leaves Operation Macau as the obvious winner.  The Langhe Brick, which won the big Guangdong International Tea Expo in ’06, is less intense.  Again, this might be adjusted through airing.  Also, however, the OM is obscenely sweet.  Though it certainly didn’t have the stamina of Drury Lane or Langhe Brick, through the course of the day it was able to maintain its presence relative the others, with the Langhe Tuo rapidly approaching.