Puerh Junky Visits an ’05 and ’04
Puerh Junky Visits an ’05 and ’04 begins with LCGC’s 125g Jingmai “003” and ends with 6FTM’s Tuo. It’s the 2023 All-Star Game today, mid-Jul in a summer that has not been particularly warm. Both have been stored in just about the same conditions for the better part of five years here in Los Angeles. Original storage conditions were moderate to conservative.
The 003 came directly from storage with no preparation. The title of the mini-cake has the character rui (蕊), which is comprised of one major component xin (心), which is “heart.” What’s all this about? Well the ole Junky has no recollection of ever seeing this character with any other production. A few years back, 003 had an appearance resembling yinzhen/silver needle, but smaller leaves and much sassier than a silver needle. Ostensibly, this is evidence of rui material. In contrast to gongting, quite rare for raw, the leaves are whole and as mentioned resembling yinzhen.
For an 18yo production the aroma of the 003 is nothing short of startling. It is super aromatic, floral, bright but for some reason it doesn’t possess an oppressive perfume, none of that cheap church lady perfume vibe. It’s bright and fresh. Frankly, it seems like it is brighter and fresher than it in previous years. Wife thought it was a new tea. Adding to mystery is a broth that has virtually no colour. Despite this lack of colour, the transformation bears no signs of being stunted. The storage is flawless. The fragrance is not only outstanding reflective of the tiny spring leaves, but the astringency has melded to create a rich texture. This makes it major-league enjoyable, now imparting the smoothness expected from well-aged productions. Of course, the astringency picks up a bit in later infusions, but it’s always along a sweet backbone that gives active saliva provocation as opposed to dry mouth.
The 6FTM Tuo presents a more complicated tale. Sampled a month ago to a drab performance, it blossomed to an expression quite different from its product description after sitting out. Sweet berries and apple take center stage now, along a subtle petrol and graphite backdrop. Que sophisticado. hehehe. The play between the fruit and oil in the huigan pleases, with the fruit acid tweaking the cheeks. It’s very cheeky, with the sensation lasting a good slobbery spell.
This tuocha is edgier than the 003, probably thicker too. The qi is characteristic of 6FTM offerings. The qi of the 003 is very much in the aroma, along with strong chest opening attributes. Conversely, the 6FTM Tuo comes with a heaviness that pushes down at the back of the neck before imparting a bit of wooziness. This is the first time that the full character expected of a 6FTM production has come through. The crux of this treasure has been and always will be storage. Periodically, old productions are released from deep storage that require a number of years to meet a high standard. I know of three 6FTM productions between ’02-’04 that fall into this category and this tuo is one of them.
Puerh Junky Visits an ’05 and ’04 offers contrasting styles of puerh from two highly regarded factories, LCGC and 6FTM. The LCGC is deceptively young for its age, but the age is evident in its texture and sweetness, something noticeable when drinking it through the years and understanding something about aging under mostly moderate conditions. Similarly the 6FTM is dry stored but it has a broth hue that one could more or less expect under dryish conditions. Neither production is by any stretch dry tasting. However, the 6FTM required sitting out a month before it performed anywhere close to standard. If it isn’t sweet, with an excessively peaty and boring expression it’s because it needs to sit out to wake up. For a Jingmai, the 003 has some qualities reminiscent of a white tea or silver needle. This is evident in aspects of its outstanding aroma. The 6FTM Tuo is a fantastic entry-level (if price be any indication) offering from the highly regarded early days of operation.
